Recent content by Liamstag

Yup, checked and would appear to be fine; it’s showing somewhere in the region of 1100 ohms resistance.

There’s 191,000 miles on it, and yes, I definitely need to invest in something capable of diagnosing it’s issues!

Bugger! I’ll try not to dwell on the worst case scenario’s and start fresh tomorrow!

Hi Mark, yeah, I’ve done that already and it will run……..which has just made me realise that the FIP is probably ok

I’ll have a look at the FIP tomorrow and see if I can determine either of those issues.

Ah! I’m pinning my hopes on diagnostics software at this point.

I never had the pleasure of speaking to the man, but his knowledge helped me on countless occasions through the advice given to others with similar issues.

No no, I was referring to Datatek’s question…….but it would be lovely if they did just give you a message telling us what to fix!!

No new messages that I can see…..but the pixels are buggered so it’s hard to see! QS?? My brain isn’t working this evening!!

The latest instalment…….I’ve checked the inertia switch in the kick panel and it was ok, I then pulled the crank sensor and put the multimeter on it, it’s showing about 1100 ohms so I can discount that as the offending article. I think I’ll go back over everything I’ve already checked so as to...

I’ll check it out, thank you kind sir!

Thanks Brian! I’m very much the long time listener, first time caller!! I’ve been sifting through the posts here for years and have always found what I needed, that’s the beauty of “a problem shared”!!

I did think about the reset switch then obviously got distracted by something shiny and promptly forgot again! I’ll hunt it out and hope for the best! Thanks

I do have the the EKA and I know it to be correct because the fob isn’t working and so it passive arms every time you walk away from it, but it has started and ran every time once the code was entered. As I said in my original post, my understanding from everything I had come across here was...