Recent content by Langers

Also - episode 3 of my rebuild is here: Enjoy all :)

Yes, you have the right person :P New episodes coming soon, incidentally! The galv bulkhead was from somebody's unfinished project, I got it for a steal in truth. It's not brand new but is as good as - a repaired Td5 unit hot dipped. Thanks Dave - I've sent them an e-mail asking for more info...

Aaron ended up selling his complete conversion as he didn't get on with it in the end. I almost bought it from him but glad I didn't now, as I have seen the light :D #om606 #superturbodiesel

Currently my plan is to use a divorced set-up with a short connecting propshaft, as some of you have suggested. There is at least one person I know of who is in the process of developing a close-coupling adapter plate, which I will be watching closely to see how it pans out for him! But...

My engine and gearbox were effectively 'free' from my father's old E300 DT. It had done only 100,000 miles and had main dealer service history from new but like many Mercs of that era, succumbed to tin worm and was condemned. And precisely my thoughts - even a Td5 conversion would wind up...

Correct :D I believe this is the review you are referring to... Fuel pump and ECU are the biggest costs of this entire build. Fuel pump is around £900 built to my specifications, and around £500 for the gearbox controller with an OLED readout and everything required to 'plug and play'. Yes...

Now a little more detail about the powertrain I've chosen and how I came to the decision. The OM606 (specifically, OM606.962) is a 3.0, straight 6, 24 valve motor which produced from the factory, 174bhp @ 4400rpm and 243 lb/ft @ 1600rpm and was fitted to the E, S and G class Mercedes of the mid...

So: This thread will cover the rebuild and engine conversion of my 1985 127 Double Cab. The engine I've chosen is a Mercedes-Benz OM606 - 3.0 TD from a 1999 E300. I will also be installing the Mercedes 5 speed 722.6 automatic '5G-Tronic' gearbox as well. So this is how it began: As...

Tried this today - turbo seems healthy as it made enough boost to knock the ECU into limp mode with the actuator pipe off. Pretty sure the turbo is working ok - even if its bearings are a bit worn. Put it back to standard afterwards (including wastegate modulator) and am getting between 210-220...

Adjusting the wastegate to shorten it doesn't give an increase in boost pressure. How can I tell if this is because the turbo is fooked or because it's not getting enough gasses through it to spin it up? :confused: Would it be an incredibly bad idea to completely disconnect the pipe to the...

The wastegate is definitely free, with the actuator rod disconnected I can move the arm with one finger. Will check the actuator today if I can figure out how to attach a pump.

Fuel filter is a new MANN one, should be OK? Fuel pump including mesh is new. Since the problem is exactly the same as before fitting a new pump and FPR, I am assuming that fuel pressure isn't an issue, but could be wrong. Also removed the FPR again today and thoroughly cleaned the gauze filter...

Fitted a new FPR yesterday but forgot to check the little gauze filter, will check that later. Any other problem areas for fuel supply?

Well, MAF replaced this afternoon with no improvement. Readings on nanocom now should a healthy sensor though, 55g/hr at idle rising to 550-600 at full chat. Doing my nut in!! :Cry::wtf:

One question - if the MAF sensor is reading very low on nanocom - but unplugging it makes only a very small improvement in performance, how likely is it that replacing it with a good quality one will cure my power issue?