Replaced back box. Picked up last MOT as the outer was rusted and coming away. Not blowing. See the pic of the old one below. Looks suspiciously like a date code, if it is, it’s done very well. My FL is a March 06 registration on 157.5 k miles...
Hi,
You should use GKN axles,
If you have budget issue put an used one.
Don’t put aftermarket, they doesn’t last more than 1 or 2 years on common vehicule and can be less than that on a 4x4 because of the heavy angles.
You can also change only...
It can be done.
Undo hub nut.
Loosen trailing arm to hub bolt. No need to do more than a couple of turns.
Undo and remove trailing arm to chassis bolt and let arm hang.
Undo lower arm to subframe bolts x2.
Unbolt handbrake cable clip to subframe...
Must admit, I like the seperate ECUs and minor interconnectivity on the FL1.
Makes fault finding easier and means a fault in one doesn't necessarily stop you using the vehicle.
There is an ECU in the fuel burning heater but not sure what data...
Live data is also very important.
Error codes tell you what the ECU thinks is the problem, but they are aren't always correct. Sometime the logic behind how an ECU decides on errors can be wrong. Live data gives you more clues.
You need to be...
Lr don't get involved with complaints about cars. Hence passing you back to the main dealer. Main dealers have their own mechanisms of contacting lr direct for warranty claims and problems etc. What they say is correct, yer contract of sale is...
Here it is for a facelift. Power comes from position "1" on the ignition barrel (I don't know what that means), through F6, through the inhibit switch on the transmission, and in to the immobiliser.
If the vehicle starts then it's probably working.
Just to update those taking interest, I removed the fault codes and recalibrated the gyro, having remade the connection next to the handbrake. Today I’ve started the vehicle twice and driven 10 miles each time on a mix of rough dirt terrain (I’m...
Yesterday I had the wheels aligned. The nearside rear was a pig as the suspension is all original on that side but the guy used Oxy to heat the nuts and they moved easily. All the rest had been loosened before so were not too bad but the job...
I wish I could be more certain, but I am certain that they didn`t bleed the brakes or top up fluid so I presume the brake line was not touched. They did have to gently strain this and that and I saw reasonable use of the polythene faced mallet...
Hello all, while trying to understand other faults which I have cleared, pscan showed this: -
Teves Mk 25
1 error code
5E5C C1220 Unknown code
There are no wheel speed sensor codes and the Bosch front pads, 600 miles back, the wear indicator...
My pscan arrived this week and I checked all systems to see the following faults: -
B1001 Battery voltage too low
B1004 Warning lamp failure (short to ground or open circuit)
B1008 Front driver airbag, resistance too high
I have have reset the...
It seems the technical sections are getting full of haters again.
Nobody is asking for your input, so if you have nothing nice or constructive to say, say nothing.
The garage I was forced to use by unfortunate circumstance used that approach on my 2005 rear right wheel bearing replacement a few weeks ago. BTW, I couldn`t believe how much noise a bearing "starting" to fail created in the cabin.
Good luck!
Yes as long as they work or worked with the old set up.
Best buy new case or buttons and battery before trying.
Both fobs will need to be presented at the programming stage as it re progs them both the same.
Hello @Nodge68 - I cannot see the Armageddon link.... but if it refers to what I think it might; I would offer that UK has a more sensible approach to cars and motorcycles. That is, in the broad sense, does the vehicle have a continuing safe...
Thanks @andyfreelandy. I need/want to have a second working fob. Knowing it is the 17TN is a huge help. I just ordered a pscan from @pscan.eu to help me with the bizarre behaviour on the SRS side, so I can do the CCU work too.