Recent content by JebLZ

All done! Lights brighter than they've been in a long time. They've been getting dimmer so gradually that I didn't even notice!

Definitely! Pay to learn... Anyway...think it'll be a Halfords job in the morning, flooding permitting. How should I join the old wires to the new ones? I have a selection of crimp terminals and heat shrink. I'm thinking just a simple straight butt connector, probably yellow but will check the...

Sounds good but might have to get them somewhere local, I commute in the dark so need them asap :-(

Jiggling them about a bit resulted in them lighting up again, however smoke was coming off them (probably burning off the WD40 I'd just sprayed them with) The connections seem fairly corroded, hence high resistance, so that's why they're running hot

I had a word with myself, manned up and went out in the rain. Found two nicely barbecued headlight connectors on each headlight assembly!

Parked up at a shop earlier during some nasty rain, then when I get back and turn engine/lights on the side lights came on as usual (1-turn) but no dipped headlights came on on the second turn. Instead, I get the blue 'full beam' dash light on solidly(pulling back the stall to toggle full beam...

The EGR was closed when I inspected it. Covered in soot but not too bad. The turbo hoses all feel fine, no obvious defects. I checked the red ECU plug and it was FULL of oil. Spent 30 mins cleaning it out by spraying contact cleaner into each individual hole and shaking it about. Cannot tell if...

Yep, most people who've done this seem to report improved performance without any negative consequences. Might give it a go. For now, can I just remove the engine cover and unclip the intake manifold rubber air hose to visually inspect the internals of the EGR valve?

Update: Problem still there, not getting any better. Garage thinks it may be fuel pump on way out so are going to do a fuel pressure test. Current symptoms are lack of power and black smoke on acceleration. Worse when engine cold. Slightly rougher running, especially on acceleration. Crusing is...

Turbo wastegate sounded like a good possibility, however the diagnostics show that it is at 0.00% at idle, then when I rev (in neutral) it goes up to about 6-10% engaged. Couldn't actually see the gate visibly moving though. I tried operating the gate with a pair of pliers to see if it was...

Ah ok didn't know that about the pump. I can rev fine past 3000 though, in fact at high revs/when the turbo is at max boost everything is happy. Think I revved it up to about 4000 or so, way past what I normally would use whilst driving.

I didn't drive it, just revved it in Neutral on my drive and the throttle 'jerkiness' was still present. I did get some Air Flow errors, yep. I remember seeing an 'air flow HIGH' and 'air flow LOW' error. Cleared them after the test. I'll check the fuel pump too, not something I've looked at...

This thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/removing-and-cleaning-a-td5-map-sensor.198286/ gives good instructions how to clean a MAP sensor, and it also points to the fact that the EGR causes crap to build up on the MAP sensor. As I suspect I have problems with my EGR, it's possible...

What pump do you mean? If you mean the turbo then yep I can hear that, sounds healthy and behaves just like before the trouble started. Certainly does feel like an air flow issue. Quite slow from 1000-2000 revs before the turbo kicks in. It's burning far too rich during this period as I get...

Seems better now, but not fixed Still very poor acceleration between idle and 2000 rpm. Lots of I burnt diesel out the back. MAF sensor disconnection had no effect. EGR stuck open error code now (code 3144). I had previously been getting a 'stuck closed' message. Not had the EGR blanked...