Recent content by jda070504

Ive changed that twice including heating one on the radiator and fitting whilst hot to fool the ecu. Think this Freelander is going to become a donor for the HGF Freelander I bought most recently. Only needs HG doing or engine & hose swap and Rear window reg and it should be good to go.

From Lancashire, changed both sensors, the one horizontal which is easy to see, I assume is the CTS? and the one underneath which you can't see got swapped out from a running freelander. I've also sat these sensors on a radiator for half hour until very warm to touch, then connected them back...

It's definitely not the black fuel cut off button on the bulkhead, pressed that on numerous occasions now. Have changed the CTS from the other freelander, with key to position 2. If you disconnect the plug, then reconnect it you hear a very short faint click/buzz each time so the CTS is being...

Thats the thing that's been in the back of my mind since I bought it. I could have knocked a wire whilst sorting the door electrics out but it can only be on the engine loom surely? I have an A/C engine loom on my parts freelander and this is a none A/C engine but in principle the only...

It does caugh. What i think is happening is when the key is turned to position 2 the fuel pump primes and puts fuel into the injector rail, then when the key is turned to position 3 the injectors release the build up of fuel into the chambers which partially ignites as the plug sparks. But no...

well, went back out today as the weather was nice enough. Managed to find that the fuel pump not priming was down to a blown fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I've got the cambelt timed correctly now but that hasn't made any difference. Key to pos 2. Fuel pump primes, turn the key, engine turns...

haven't managed to get back outside yet due to the bad weather so i've sat inside scouring the net looking at freelanders. So, i've ended up with a third freelander, bought for scrap money plus £200 for delivery, main issue is this one has HGF! Only other 2 issues are rear window motor doesnt...

Cheers for that, can't go wrong after watching that really. Will be setting the cam timing right and seeing where i stand. I'll be getting someone to come round in the not too distant future with a code reader for the early Mems. Will do that once everythings back where it should be

The ecu & 27vt put onto another freelander works perfectly. Engine cranks and starts, idles fine and drives. Back in this and it doesn't start

The battery went on charge for an hour after being run low a couple of days ago. I've give it a full charge now, maybe that'll make the difference. Will check under the bolts if I get chance tonight. Then I'll time the crank & cam pulleys, belt back on. I snapped the Allen key slot on the...

Bugger, so the photo above is almost BANG on to start with? Would this stop the fuel pump priming at all now it's that far out or have I still got 2 seperate issues to sort?

Thing is. The fuel pump was priming 2 days ago. It's a replacement fuel pump from a working vehicle and is in good condition. Once changed onto this hippo it primed on turning the key to position 2 as it should and it released jets of fuel from the injectors briefly but the engine wouldnt fire...

Well, after alibro's advice I decided to check the timing. Set to Tdc and found the cams......... So I've set the cams up to TDC as so..... And guess what's happens when you turn the engine over........ NOTHING. For some reason the fuel pump doesnt even prime now when the key is turned...

Not had the codes read. Its trying to find a mobile mechanic that can read fault codes on the early MEMS 1.9 unit. They aren't OBD2 compliant are they?

Yep, leads on correctly. I've connected a seperate fuel rail and left it sat on the engine whilst cranking the engine, this way I can physically see the fuel coming out the manifold. once the car has been immobilized, knock the immobilizer off and with the key turned fully to start the engine...