Recent content by JamesBB

I had no choice, it was falling off, the brackets were not holding it on at all. The bumper itself is shot too. Plastic is no longer flat and bent up in the sun, steel inner bumper is corroded, 2 of the mounts no longer exist. Have to find a reasonable second hand one or think of the next...

Better. Just thinking of fabricating these brackets myself, they do not look that hard to make. Sprayed Lanoguard down the chassis rails as far as it could go after vacuuming out and inserting the whole length of the vac hose.

Thankfully it is the only really rusty part of the car. The last 15 years I have spent a week per year laying under it cleaning, protecting and painting. Never could get the rear bumper off though. Did not think about waiting for it to rust itself off. :) They seem quite pricey too...

Thanks but

Hi All Usual P38 HSE 4.6 1999. Next disaster is: Rear bumper mounts have largely gone. Anybody know where to get these now? All the usual suppliers are claiming they are no longer made or available. Part is ANR2381. Also need the side mount brackets, ANR2500, but strangely these are still...

Update. Well that was easy, just place a carpet over the modules under the seat (removing seat first) then lay on your back on the carpet, legs in the air, arms under the dash. Got it out and done what I wanted to. Now on to the next disaster.

Hi All 1996 P38 HSE 4.6 GEMS. Apologies in advance, this seems a question that probably has a simple answer. How on earth do I remove the connector from the ECU? It's an early one with the single large 35 way plug. I do not want to force it, maybe it is just difficult to get to. Thanks James

Cheers. Just went to look at one on another 2000 car, seems to be plugged directly in with no cable on the RR. So the RL on mine had been changed. I am starting to think mine is bit a hacked up hybrid sensor cabling wise..... I have ordered a new plug with a ready made length of cable for...

Update time. No new components were fitted when they tried the original repair, they broke it so wanted to fix it with minimal cost to themselves. Regarding the extra cables........ I have checked, it does actually seem that all P38s (certainly early ones) have fly leads that connect the loom...

Ordered a new cable and connector to solder into the RL side. Will use glue and heatshrink as suggested. The RH side is ok, just needs a clean solder join and glue/heatshrink again. Update one done.

OK check this out. What on earth is this cable? I took off the red tape as suggested to find the connector was totally destroyed underneath. Possibly part done by me taking off all the melted plastic that was bonding it together into a single mass. This cable goes from the RL height sensor to...

Got the RL off too. Much the same condition. No real signs of perishing. Will Keep as a spare. Spent the rest of the time cleaning underneath and rust treatment of what little corrosion there seems to be.

Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out. Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.

I have decided to swap out the rear springs while I am in there and treat some of the metal too to hold the corrosion at bay. Its not bad under there, but good to do while access is available. I have de-pressurised and removed the air line plus the top and bottom R spring pins. However, the top...

Also note that I checked the errors without the engine running. I will start it tomorrow and check again.