J_D's latest activity

Remember to leave some skin there too

As far as I am aware the head gasket you need depends on the engine, the height of the liners in the block. Dmgrs.co.uk have a lot of info and can supply the gasket. Don't turn the engine with the head off though.

My idea would be to get rid of it.

Sounds like the starter motor needs new connectors inside, easy job once you have it off the car, take a look and clean the connection on the starter, what mileage is the FL1 after a bout 75,000 onwards the starter needs new connectors and...

I would try again with engine running, extra voltage may get it open. Push the door inwards to relieve any pressure on the latch before trying to open. Else it a case of getting door card off which is on here somewhere.

Just watched the video cheers on most of my other vehicles pajero ect I've always removed the bottom bolt and pushed the caliper upwards to clear pad then just removed old ones clean up and grease pins drop caliper back down done, so I will...

looking at this video both bolts are removed, and the piston wound all the way back. The slide pins, behind the rubber cover, comes out and needs greasing every time or it'll seize. May need a clean up if rusted. Obviously, as in the video...

I think mine have done around 7000 miles, tempted by the HD ones, or accept changing them every couple of years. Easy enough to change even as a service item when checking slide pin on front brakes.

Is it a proper leak, or just a creep of oil past the threads? If the latter, then a few wraps of plumbers PTFE tape on the sensor threads will solve the issue.

Drop links have a limited life span!

The pipe at the front and top of the engine? Mine has spewed some oil out there too. The pipe can rub and cause small hole in the pipe.

Well, its a funny old game. I dunno why it would be any different, but I had another go at programming the new keys today. Thought I'd simplify it and just add 1 new key to the existing 1. And guess what..... Da darrrrr... It failed...

Intermittent faults are hard to trace. Could be cable damage. Finding it isn't easy. Visual inspection or having a slightly lower rated fuse in the cable run can indicate which length of cable is at fault. So if the middle fuse blows the fault is...

Not sure, but have you checked there is power at the fuses?

Allow it to go through all checks before putting foot on brake and pressing the start button. If that doesn't work try with the brake pedal held down constantly to see if its a pedal position sensor issue.

I saw scissor jack and thought you'd lifted the car enough to release the seat belt! They operate quite crudely but effective using a pendulum type arrangement that if it gets swung too far it locks the belt.

I would say to rule out linkage, disconnect linkage and move selector on gear box to see if it changes gear. Without the engine running. Easier said than done though I imagine as bleeding the clutch is a stretch down the depths.

could a worn linkage between gear lever cause difficult gear change? ending up with a gear stick that moves through the gears but the car stays locked in possibly 3rd 4th or 5th when in neutral position when you let the clutch pedal up?

I assume the gear lever is moving and is in the neutral position but still engaged gear. Can you see if the selector is loving when gear lever moved, down by the battery. The gear lever operates 2 rods under the car, could be worth looking at them.

Ah yes could have been.

Other diagnostics are available! Have a look through previous threads for recommendation. Some do specific vehicles and some do many vehicles. You'll need one that is able to operate the abs pump. Pscan gets good reviews on here. Quick eBay...

I was sure you had mentioned the tool in the past, unless it was someone else but I thought you referenced another car. I never knew about such tool before. Pretty sure it's located in the glove box? That's just a guess though..

Handbrake, I've always done it by adjusting so it binds on the drum then back off adjuster slightly. Handbrake passes mot and holds car OK. Not pumping the brake as I found it made no difference. Air can be trapped in abs module which would need...

Compression issues can sound like it trying to start, as it gets to the cylinder with low compression the starter can turn over quicker due to the lack of compression holding it back. Oscilloscope on battery and prevent from starting (fuelpump...

Sounds like you need to go back to the beginning, with live data. You can get to the point where so many items have been replaced, that if one replacement item is faulty, you've no idea what the true issue is. Firing a parts cannon is often an...

Original post mentions release bearing noise. Release bearing noise will be when the clutch is depressed, make sure it is release bearing failure and not the issue quoted by andyfreelandy. Or could be air in the system still. My Td4 I bleed every...

Use a 55 Watt headlamp bulb as a test light, grounding the light through the terminal on the glow plug. If the light lights, then there's nothing wrong with that plug.

I don't think it means an electrical relay, just a way of releasing brake pressure.