Recent content by IHMS

Its the gummy residue from the half burned oil your rear main seal deposited there! There is no point in changing the clutch if you dont fix the rear main...if you tackle it, remember to use Permatex 300 sealant on bone dry steel...its the only sealant that works on rear mains...RTV is a joke.

It's not so much a knackered clutch as, what knackered the clutch in the first place...these things are NOTORIOUS for leaking rear main seals...eventually the oil gets to the pressure plate and clutch disc...its the "gummy" sticky half burned oil glaze on your clutch disc that you can blame...a...

I have a Series 2A 1969 with a 2.25 petrol...next to the coil I have two ballast blocks...one says "K 19" and the other says "K 22"...which one should I use? Thanks Guys

Steve...I am not sure where you are located...but do you ever have issues with the carb getting hot? as it is located over the exhaust manifold? Mine only does this when it is hot...never cold. Was yours the same way? Thanks, Mark

Hi everyone...I have a Series 2A 2.25 petrol that misfires when hot. We rebuilt the distributor a few days ago...reset the points, checked everything...cleaned it all up pretty and it run like a stallion for 2 days...now she is back to her old ways. Cap is new, points are new, condenser is new...

RJ...I got my new IC regulator today...I will let you guys know how it went!

Thanks Sypher, I have one of those risers about 3/4 of an inch in hight and the temps I think are moving primarily through the two bolts and also the material itself. The exhaust manifold temps must be upwards of 900-1200 degrees. I am wondering if I could separate them some how and grind off...

That is an interesting thought Poppy...she gets very hot...but how hot is too hot...it never overheats in the extreme sense anyway. In traffic...who can put their hand on their radiator? have you tried touching your intake manifold after its been running an hour? Its almost as hot as the exhaust...

Not sure, but my petrol carb is actually TOO HOT to even touch when sitting in traffic or not moving very fast. Its starts bucking and sputtering like I am getting vapor lock. The manifold as you all know is attached to the intake (which I maintain was a bad idea) and the heat causes the...

I will check both, but I think RJ's first suggestion is likely on the money...because of the tandem anemic response of my temp gauge which is run off the same voltage regulator. Thanks very much. Will keep you both "posted".:rolleyes:

Thanks RJ! I will look for one on Saturday! I wonder if those part numbers are universal?? I other words, if I give somone in China Town that number will they know what it means?:) Again, Thanks a ton, Mark

Hi, The first question I wanted to ask was, did you install the parabolics yourself or did you have it professionally done? If you did it yourself, do you remember having seen any clearly marked notations designating "right spring, left spring?" or "drivers side, passenger side?" If it were...

Thanks guys...that is my next move. That voltage regulator box thing may be the trick...because it regulates my temperature gauge and thats looking a bit anemic also!!! The next time I am tempted to tell someone to "get a life" I will just tell them to get a Rover and after a while they will...

Hi Everyone, I have a fuel gauge that only goes up half way. I put in a new sending unit in the tank. To test it, I grounded it out so the fuel gauge itself went promptly up to full. Cleaned the grounds, cleaned all the contacts at the dash and tank...and with a full tank, it only goes up to...

No problem Gunny, If I told you how many Series Land Rovers there were in Thailand, you wouldnt believe me...and the kicker is they are rust free! The frames and bulkheads are mint!! No salt and the clay soil here just preserves everything. In fact, I am thinking about opening a restoration...