Recent content by harvestmouse

"if i remember rightly, tapping with a small hammer did the trick" That's usually option 2 in most scenarios.

Thanks for the photos, Mr Egg. Looks like the last bit does just pull off. Wonder if WD40 would help. It usually does.

Hi Ferretboy Thanks for the tip. However....... there is a metal plate on the vehicle advising one not to arc weld it whilst the alternator is connected, so I thought that I should do so. I don't want to fry anything electrical.

Hello again This sounds like it should be so simple, but I don't want to risk breaking anything, so I will consult your collective wisdom before reaching for a hammer. 1978 S3 ex-military radio vehicle (FFR) with 24 volt electrics and braided cables. Just before it goes into the alternator...

Have decided not to remove the cover. However, if anyone knows the easiest way in the event that this job HAS to be done, it might be worth posting in case anyone else needs the info.

You have a point, MrChurchill. The springs can be changed as you describe. But I have taken so much stuff off around the gearbox for other reasons, I'd like to have a check, as much as is possible without dismantling or removing the gearbox.

Hi I'm in the process of changing at least one detent spring, so have looked at the relevant posts + photos. Have removed all 6 cover bolts / nuts, including the awkward horizontal ones at the back. The cover can now be raised. However, the back of the cover is too tall for removal -...

Re- DominicBeesley's suggestion: If I melted the outer cable so that the inner one couldn't turn, does that mean I may have mullered the bit at one end where the cable goes into either the speedo or the part of the gearbox that turns the cable? Or is the cable itself the weak point and the ends...

Evening Dominic. I did unbolt the exhaust middle section so as not to stress the bit where it joins the manifold, so what you said is indeed possible. I will have a look underneath tomorrow and let you know if I find anything obvious.

SORTED IT !! Just wedged a piece of wood in there to stop the lozenge turning, then tightened the bolt. Took it for a run and then re-tightened everything. No exhaust leaks. But now the sôdding speedo has stopped working. Wonder what I could have done to do that.... Will have a good check...

Hi Ray Well done. It's probably best to get your own Freelander quips out there before the others start any of their own. I feel fairly confident, that they will make you welcome.

Bolt is definitely not too long. I think that it's down to the washers (will double check that there are two) being too sticky. WD40 should do it. Will update as and when. I didn't choose the matt black in the photo by the way, but it makes a change from green or blue. I didn't install the...

Sounds like it might not just be me being a useless tw-t if you had the same problem. Right hand one as well. Thanks again for all help so far. I have put a photo of the vehicle in the 'introduce yourself' section, as requested.

Hurrah! Thanks to Brown for the link, thanks to Vagrent and Mad Hat Man for the 'posting images for dummies' info. It really is that easy. Now for that damn bolt...... maybe I'll arc weld it. (That question is in the Series LRs section, titled 'manifolds bolt won't tighten')