Recent content by fumiyasu

Hi, I've been slowly renewing bits and pieces on my TD5 defender and have came to do all the rubber coolant hoses, radiator, waterpump and thermostat since most of this is now 20 years old and as I plan on an alive VNT turbo, I wanted the cooling to be working tip top before I put anymore...

Thanks, just saved that to my growing reference docs folder. I guess the non programmable part is where the difference is. Anyway it seems to be working ok for me so far still so fingers crossed that was the end of it.

Thanks, well I sort of knew it was a disco ECU but reading the nanocom forum I was lead to believe they all should work as long as the map flashed on is correct. Not sure about the not accepting defender map bit, I guess perhaps it could also be the 000xxx versus 500xxx. Anyways thanks, guess I...

Hi, I've just swapped my ECU to a NNN500250 from ebay on my 15p td5 defender. Did the normal map flash, injector, throttle and security learn. Truck starts and drives fine but I am getting fault codes for Aircon open load. Presumably the car this ECU came from had AC and so is giving a fault...

Definitely going to use my mapp torch much more and get a welder (think about all the other projects I can start :rolleyes::rolleyes:). Watched a video on YouTube last night where this guy was measuring the torqueto undo rusty nuts using various penetrating oil etc. Heat was by far the best and...

Interesting, i' just put the stub axle back on the other side, will have a measure around, the bolts definitely doesn't poke through on mine. Does yours have a detachable bracket for the brake calipers? Mine is just an integral piece. Anyway, I am also please to report that all three studs were...

There's still a good 7-10mm sticking out now tht I have removed the stub axle, so that could potentially work but I will probably try the nut welding tomorrow first.

Yes, those are the ones but I think there are a number of different configurations even on just the non Salisbury axle version. The bolts on mine at 25mm long.

Didnt check this for a while and it's became a chemistry thread. :D:D All interesting stuff. Well the problem is whilst the threaded hole goes through, the bolt only goes in 3/4 of the way, leaving the rest of the 1/4 to collect all sort of stuff and rust out. It would have been better if...

I need to try this next time. I actually have a load of 10 years old old ep oil and atf in the garage which I was going to get rid of but I am guessing they are probably ok for this application:rolleyes::rolleyes:.

I do try to soak it with plusgas in general. Is the acetone/ep90 mix generally more aggressive I take it?

Yep. It was actually a bit strange for me as every time I have had a bolt snapped before was the initial crack but this time around it wasn't. The bolt cracked open fine and I was just undoing it, went out a decent amount before the resistance increased again but at that point I wasn't really...

Well when I say project, it's more a gradual renewal project rather than in the sense of a really neglected old thing I am bringing back to life. I've had this for 8 years now but just now wanting to renew some parts and a full inspection of conditions given it's 25 years old. And I do have a...

Yea, it's just the length isn't long enough to get it locking properly. I've done it on the exhaust manifold studs but that had miles of threads and works fine when it's not seized up. Just really gutted as I probably would have been ok if I took my time... Was originally going to only just do...

On the first question, what I should have done was stop and came back the next day. But yes I was being an idiot..:oops: Tried doing the lock nut thing this morning but can't quite get the second nut to grip with the first. So I think it's either weld or square it off and then mole grip...