FrINlander's latest activity

Painted over a chipped and rusted corner on the bonnet. Tried to remove a snapped bolt without results. 😑

Replaced the front RH ABS sensor. Wasn't as easy as I thought and I succeeded in breaking one of the wheel well covers pins. I hate plastic pins.

Very important, which is why it often breaks, especially if the lower tie bar large bush has gone soft.

Does anyone know how vital the metal linkage from the exhaust to the IRD is? Mines cracked and I can see it's been welded(roughly) before. I'm considering just cutting of the nub, it's creating a lot of interesting noises when I let off the gas. 😅

It's a sh*ton, that's why the forum is full of posts about how hard they are to get off. I just tighten them down until I can't, they've stayed on(for now).

I wish they'd ignore me, but they're always after my wages. :(

Probably a m8 bolt 10.9 grade

Tried loosing up my tie rod for an alignment. Noticed one of the bolts in the steering rod assembly has a snapped head(nr. 2 in image) Does anyone have the specs for them? It's a 13mm socket, but don't know anything about the thread, dimensions...

Maybe it wasn't as similar as I remembered, but the likeness is there.

Where did you get the seats? I'm fairly certain we have those exact seats, but on office chairs at work. :D

Necroing my own thread. Both CV Axles have been replaced and my shudder is now only due to a slight alignment error, which is getting fixed(tire shop wouldn't do it due to a rusted stuck steering linkage). Seals replaced and only leakage is from...

If it performs like a Jaecoo or Omoda, then it'll be as dull as dishwater to drive. I tried a Jaecoo recently, it made our Ioniq 5 seem like a rocket ship on rails. It was a very underwhelming vehicle indeed.

Looks like any other electro/hybrid crossover in recent years. Can't wait to see a spec sheet describing similar performance to every other model, but being more expensive than the Chinese cars.

This would be very appreciated, but a lot of the information this would contain, could also be considered common knowledge. How to treat a rusted bolt is tricky, but should the guide also explain how to use a induction coil? Or just how to do it...

Here are the measurements of the chip by vernier caliper.

Or keep it under the boot floor, around the spare wheel. If you make sure you double lock the car every time, the only way in is through a broken window, and accessing the under boot floor without the rear hatch open is basically impossible...

I found this page informative about the various systems in the FL1 over the years https://www.remotekey.co.uk/help/land-rover-freelander-key-fob-and-immobiliser-problems/

Or keep it under the seat, so you can pull it out in a hurry! 🤫

I think my key is a recut from a blank, but how it is in a LR holder intrigues me. I do have a chip in mine. 2005 Facelift.

Do you happen to have the dimensions for the chip? I doubt anything like that would fit my key, although they're branded as 'chippable'. I don't have it on me ATM so can't post a picture. I'm hoping my car is old enough to rely on the fob for the...

It's just this is your 4th post with the same problem. Makes it really difficult to see what responses you have had and what has been advised and tried. Remove duplicate posts, post results of tests and you'll find this is one of the best...

I'm also curious about alternative suppliers. Mine is Silca branded and has worked until now. It's fairly slim, so I'm unsure if it actually carries the chip.

Soldered a new O2 sensor for the Lodgy and had it in for the(equivalent) MOT. The Freelander had the pleasure of taking my wife to work. She really doesn't like driving it. This should give me more leeway for the repair budget. :D Still waiting...

Fixed the HDC (thanks for your recent pic' postings @andyfreelandy - super helpful) and am now ready for my first big trip this year. Dodgy connector!! This will fix other wet weather problems seen via pscan and showing up in the display. I...