FEI's latest activity

@Tempus did you ever check the ATF level?

What size of budget do you have for the purchase? They can be got cheap (with problems) but at least a running car. To what level of problem would depend on your facilities to do work and how brave you are. If I remember a member here got a...

If its just an oily weep and everything else is fine you have a couple of choices. 1) live with it. Does it leave any marks on the ground yet? 2) see if the nuts will nip up a bit. becarful. 3) Try your idea. It would need to be a good sealant...

I'd put the rad back in, run it on water and get a long screwdriver, get it running before you go any further with this... Further that and check all the rocker clearances to rule out a tapping valve. This could go sideways expensively if your...

From the info in this thread, exhaust in coolant was probably either head or valley gaskets. however probably cause for gasket failure was blocked radiator. On my project car the prev-owner has bodged the thermostat & over tightened the...

Im gonna make an educated guess and say that that radiator is the reason you have exhaust gasses in your coolant in the first place

If there are copper flakes coming out, personally I would bin it and get a new Nissens radiator. Not very expensive. Sounds like one of the HGF cures has been tried at some time.

Is that with the tap fully open? That looks very clogged to me

Sounds like it's partially blocked to me.

The rad should be able to easily flow the amount of water out of a normal garden hose. You could try: Get some radiator flush, have the radiator lie on its front, fill it with the radiator flush and some water but have it quite concentrated and...

What do you mean grounding frank? 🤔

Yes it's pretty normal in an enclosure, but it should be stuck to the walls not curled up

Yeah that should be fine, with some lubrication im sure that will be more than enough.

Just as an add, I assume the dash shows P,R,N,D when the stick is in the correct position. It needs to show N for it to switch from low to hi TB when assembled will be in the low position and the gearlever has to be moved to and see N for it to...

The transfere case has its own ecu though.

No. Passenger side on top of the EAS ECU. I would think it might be the cable adjustment on the gear selector lever. It might not think it is in neutral when you have it in that position. So I would be looking at the gear lever or cable.

Well…it’s easier to get in when the doors open? 🤭

The plot thickens.

Too late me thinks, if you have fitted clocks with a higher mileage, the BECM will already have updated to the new higher mileage.

Thanks for that - good to know I won't need to remove the fan. I managed to persuade the first bolt out with a propane torch, and I found the other behind that piece of unknown plastic trim. Just like the first one, it's also spinning freely so...

^+1 Yeah sounds like the motor and shaft where not clocked correctly. It could also be that the internal spring mechanism is not assembled correctly. As you rotate the shaft it builds of tesion on a spring inside the box until there is enough...

If you replacing with standard rubber you need a press. If you replacing with standard rubber the special taperd tool makes it way easier to do, i highly recommend it.

Just my view. I really struggled, i think it would have been a major struggle stuck under the car

so will it be quicker and easier if the arm is completely out? then I could also go to a garage and they would press the new ones back in. I've done that before. ok, then I'll do it right away.

if using a press you will need the tool to do it the bushes are bigger than the hole in the arm and need pushing through a tappered tool to fit.

I dont think you will need to remove the fan. -Remove both coolant pipes from the radiator and try to position the thermostat in an out of the way spot. -Remove the top portion of the fan cowling. -Remove the two metal clips at the top of the...

A one off, yes. That said our water leaves lumps in the kettle after a few boils. Water was always hard but since HS2 started drilling it is really bad. HS2 are extracting more water from the aquafir for their tunnelling than used by the whole...

I'd just follow the refil proceedure from RAVE. That's how I've always done it... with maybe a bit of squishing the top hose to burp any air round the system...

That doesn't look standard and, the wire has deformed the hose causing the leak, could also be drawing in air.

Now you've jinxed it