Recent content by fatscoleymo

Ok..after practicing making flares I set to this morning...after cutting the short pipe from the cylinder to the flexi I then relalised I could get a ring spanner on the union that fixes to the flexi and whadda know? I got it free...yeh! So managed to bend the new straight pipe I had (with...

Thanks for your help Flossie - i'll report back with the outcome.. Fats

Yes, got the flexi and short pipe to cylinder...just had a look at the car - the pipe from the master goes into a 'splitter' mounted on top of the chassis with three outs - one to the rear (where it divides again) and one each to the front wheels... so i'd just have to make a shortish pipe from...

Thanks again Flossie - i like the idea of getting it made up locally, but don't know if our local garages would do it for me...maybe i'll pop down to the local lad (he's done work on our old pug for us) and see if he's game for it... Fats

Thanks Flossie - tried that....heat from a blowtorch ....wd 40 several times, but all I'm managing to do is round off the nuts...think the short pipe from the flexi to the cylinder is steel...does that make a difference?

Hope you can help me.. I have a 1978 series 3 swb 2&1/4 petrol...the front right wheel was hard to rotate - slackening off the adjuster did not help. After much struggle I got the hub off and on one side of the brake cylinder the piston was almost out - the other side it was stuck in... So as i...

Hi guys, got back from Oz midweek , so set to yesterday to fit a new slave cylinder to see if that was the problem. Took a while to get the pipe union 'cracked', but eventually with help of wd40 it freed. It is awkward to get to the bolts, but with a small extension on the socket set it came out...

Thanks Oxides, I'll get stuck in when we're back from Oz.

Thanks everyone. If it's not just the slave, and I have to replace bearing (and clutch plate while I'm in) is it possible to use a trolly jack under the gearbox to support it? I don't have an engine hoist, or know anyone with one.

Thanks for replies guys. I undid the slave cylinder bleed nipple a turn and the pedal works fiune, so problem either with slave or worse!!. I've got a new slave, didn't fit it when I did the master a couple of years ago because it's a pain to get at. I guess I'll do the slave and hope that's it...

Hi Guys hope you can help. I have a '78 series 3, 2 & 1/4 petrol. It does very few miles and it has been sitting about 3 months since last driven a short way. Went to it today and the clutch pedal is solid in the 'up' position, it won't depress. I fitted a new master cylinder about 2 years ago...

Ok - 1978 series 3, 2&1/4 petrol. I've had a knock on engine for a few years now (only do 500 miles or so each year), opinion suggested little end on no3. So eventually today stripped head off, sump off, pushed up no 3 piston and pushed it out. The gudgeon pin(? part no 265169)when inserted has...

Try this: www.nickslandrover.co.uk/archives/582

Try wedging the brake pedal down with a block of wood between the seat box and the pedal overnight. Worked for me.

Ok, recently became aware that charge light would only go out when bootfuls of revs applied. (Even then there was a very faint glow). Changed fan belt and checked tension - all ok. Wiggled leads around on back of alt. and generally had a look for any problem wires but couldn't see anything...