Recent content by eprothe

I hate it when people leave threads hanging like this, so here's the solution in case anybody finds this in the future... Yes, you can (in fact, you probably have to) adjust the new servo, but not the side I was looking at. You can adjust the master-cylinder side of the servo by screwing out...

It's been a while now since I took mine completely apart, but this is the thread I put together while I did it - I tackle the dashboard on page 2, around post #20: 110 body removal (slroc.co.uk) Hopefully there's something in there that's helpful - I start putting it all back together later on...

Fitted a new vacuum servo...which meant I had to disconnect the pedal from the servo clevis...which meant I had to remove the clutch fluid sensor to get at it...which meant I had to bleed the clutch as well as the brakes afterwards...I hate Defenders... ...I love Defenders.

...so I did...and it's not, as far as I can see...

Is the servo clevis rod adjustable for length? I've read a few posts for other vehicles which talk about screwing in/out the servo to pedal rod...it never occurred to me to check that...

...yep, vacuum seems good - I pumped the pedal a few times without the engine running to release any vacuum, started the engine with the pedal held down and felt it sink as the vacuum built up. The brakes actually feel pretty sharp...the pedal just has a lot of movement and doesn't come back up...

Hi, Thanks for that. It was good before I fitted the new servo...I've not checked it since, though...I'll let you know.

Hello, My defender td5 110 failed it's MOT for having underperforming brakes. The diagnosis was "probable bad vacuum servo". I've fitted a new one but now I've got very soft brakes - the pedal goes half way down before I get any braking and is slow to come back up again. I've bled the system as...

The galvanizing place (Highland Galvanizers) I took all my various bits to when I rebuilt my Defender stripped and de-rusted everything as part of the galvanizing service - I wish I'd galvanized everything now!

Yep, this is a good point - mucking about with what's essentially a single-board computer is fraught with risk! I'd be interested to know what the frequency the two capacitors are being used at is, though - they're both so large, I can't imagine it's very high and I'd be surprised if any RF...

Hello again, thanks all for your help and advice. On the likelihood that the starter I fitted two years ago came in a low-quality blue bag, I decided to just fit a new starter complete - from Hella this time. I can confirm that changing the starter on a Td5 is a massive pain in the...

Hello, apologies for not replying sooner. I'd always meant to update this with how things are going... The best part of a year later and something like 5000 miles down the road, I've never had another ECU fault since I changed the capacitors. In fact, until my starter may or may not have...

Hi Tim, thanks for that - good advice. I think, perhaps, I was jumping to the worst-case scenario a little early! I get the same behaviour with the engine earthed via a lead direct from the battery - sometimes it starts first try, sometimes after three or four attempts. As I can hear...

Hello, my Defender 110 Td5 refused to start yesterday morning - all the instruments were fine, the heater coil light came on and went out OK, but when I went to start it, the starter solenoid gave a good clunk, but the starter didn't turn. I assumed I had a failed battery, so attached jump...