Recent content by d3f3nd3r

Hello. I'm looking for recommendations for a welder in the north Manchester area. Defender door at the top. Pretty sure it's steel to steel. It's the sil behind the lock. Both sides. Thanks in advance.

So i'm looking for a (ideally defender specialist) auto electrician in South East Manchester. Anyone got any recommendations? Numerous electrical problems, so many I'm not sure where to begin. Seems to be when it's wet. Alarm ECU has been playing up. Constantly blowing fuses. Today my...

So i've got a pretty heavy coolant leak on a Defender TD5 03. Around two drips per second. It looks to me like its coming from a small circle on the engine block, just behind the alternator. Does anyone have any idea whether: A) That magic crack filling fluid you add to your coolant will...

Ah cheers

So i've got a pretty heavy coolant leak on a Defender TD5 03. Around two drips per second. It looks to me like its coming from a small circle on the engine block, just behind the alternator. Does anyone have any idea whether: A) That magic crack filling fluid you add to your coolant will...

This seems like a pretty good deal though... Winder, handle and lock for £18.50. Doesn't come with the yellow bits though.... (I managed to snap one of the lock fittings too)

So, as I'm sure we all have, I've taken off my door trims and snapped all the plastic clips. The problem I have is everywhere seems to sell the black push to fit bits but I can't find anywhere that sells the yellow bit that sits in the card. I've snapped nearly all of them. Anyone got any...

All sorted, thanks for the advice everyone.

And now I feel like an idiot. It only failed the MOT on the rubber cover/boot/gator. I'll stick the new one on and put it back together. I also had a thought that it might be a fully sealed one from new, which is why there's no cir clip. Just a guess though.

Hmm that would've been a great idea if i hadn't already got the repair kit. Money is really that tight at the moment. I'm almost at the point where I take a hammer to it and see if the cups come out the bottom. Don't want to damage the actual rod though.

So my TD5 90 doesn't seem to have the cir clip on the top of the drop arm ball joint. Can't seem to find any that don't. Anyone got a link?

So i've gone with sticking a 50mm M6 (over the original 40mm M8) strait through and sticking a nut and washer on the other end. Spoke to the MOT guy and he said as long as it's not going anywhere it'll be fine. On to the drop arm ball joint change now, wish me luck.

So (obviously) my 90 TD5 failed it's MOT. Passenger seat was loose. The issues I have is that the bolt in the chassis is threaded. Does anyone know if it's alright to drill it out and stick a bolt through the whole thing? Any a advice would be helpful and thanks in advance.

So i've just moved to New Mills in North West Derbyshire. I've got a 90 TD5. It seems like an area healthy with Defenders. Does anyone ever get out to play? Also, I'm looking for advice on a few bits. Hit me up if you're local. Edit: I'm also a photographer and pretty handy with Photoshop, if...

So i've not been on here for a million years but I actually sprayed them using cheap satin black paint from the local. Didn't lacquer them, they've lasted for ages. The only trouble i've had is on the plastic centre caps and only one has flacked a tiny bit.