Recent content by Brewedintheuk

Right, that's it I think. Hope it helps anyone who's thinking about doing the job themselves. Thank you for all your comments along the way to help. Sorry about the photos, and thank you for the messages trying to help with them. I couldn't get them to be made smaller and reduce enough...

I fitted some captive screw fixings to the gearbox surround as a temporary measure, just in case anything needs to be set up again or removed. If everything is ok, then I may rivet it back on.

With everything back, the gear selector plate will need setting up so that it will select the gears easily, if it doesn't then just lever the gear selector plate about until all the gears are there.

When the gearbox is ready to go back in, make sure the engine is level with the gearbox and it should slide back in, it took me a lot of wiggling and pushing and it slid back in. From here secure the gearbox with the bolts and build the lot back up.

Before the gearbox goes back in make sure the spiggot bush is ok, clean and not cracked, it's only a few £ to replace it if you want.

I then wound the thread up until it lifted enough to get trolley jacks underneath.

I dropped the chains through the hole and secured them round the gearbox.

The engine support was money well spent as I said earlier on. It made life so much easier. I cut 2 pieces of wood to fit in the seats, wrapped them in card to protect the seats and put the support across the two seats.

From there it's everything back on.

I had the same problem with the oil pipe too, the pipe was starting to wear through rubbing against the sump, so I cable tied it out the way as a temporary measure. I'll do something more permenant at some stage. But just for now wrapped some hard plastic round it and cable tied it in position too.

After the sump was cleaned and dried and the gasket added to the areas shown I put the seal back on the block side rather than the sump side, I'm sure you can do it either way, but this seemed the logical thing to do as you can see the securing lugs are fitted to the sump when it's fitted, but...

I cleaned the sump up and basically followed the instruction on the website above. I cleaned and replaced the rear main oil seal, and I used the plastic seal protector ( part number LRT-12-061 ) that was supplied with the rear main, so that the seal slips over the Crankshaft end easily. You...

I replaced the bolt anyway as a precaution and as the sump was off.

As the seal was split, this needed the oil sump to be removed. To remove the sump the chassis needs to be lifted and the axle supported to enable the gap to be big enough to get the oil sump out. It is just a case of removing the bolts, making sure they are removed in the correct way, as there...

It looked to me that the rear main had been put in without the sump being removed and this has caused the sump seal to split. I'm guessing the seal was put in on the bottom first and then levered up and this has caused the lugs to move and the seal to split.