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Ive done it the other way, wished I hade seen this erliar. Anyway I locked the pump in place and took it off with the timing tool so hopefully it will be OK. Got crank and pistons out, end of crank at flywheel end is a bit crusty, not sure what...

I ended up grinding the bolt heads off, there was about 5mm bolt to get hold of with mole grips and surprisingly they came out easy.

There is a locking tab on the side of the injection pump to lock the pump timing before removing. Set the timing correctly,, undo the bolt remove locking tab and tighten the bolt. You can then remove the belt and pump.

Bit further forward, Finally got front timing cover off, got sump and ladder rack off, to inspect bearings on crank, think they could do with been replaced, then again would be mad not to while I am this far in. Have not took timing belt off...

http://smithies.co.nz/land_rover/ Also the 200tdi article on turner engineering The discovery 1 manual very helpful and Britannia does good videos , he has loads so have a search Sump:bolts should not be tight, sometimes a 1/4 “ drive rattle...

Thanks Everyone, Got it on tonight, its at a bit of an angle, in first pic, not sure why, but it does turn right round with a bit of effort. Not sure what to do first either give tops of pistons and block a good clean or take sump off and see...

Thanks Again Mate will order some

I used 100mm long bolts, yes use the circled holes, don’t need to go full depth, I used additional nuts on the bolt to nip them up and saved cutting bolts https://www.toolstation.com/high-tensile-set-screw/p51414

Thanks my stand looks exactly like yours, I measured how far the studs go in to engine and the top is 2 about 35mm and bottoms about 30mm, the tubes on stand are 70mm so think I will need bolts about 120mm or longer. pic of mine so is it 4...

you should use the top 2 and the bottom 2 holes , my stand is a clarke and you can see the adjusting brackets and the long 10mm bolts with additional locknuts, it can revolve 360 degrees and lock in position just under the rubber gloves with a...

I'd probably grind the heads off those bolts to get the cover off, then tackle the stud that's left in the casing. Edit, too slow on that reply. Yes, I've currently got a 200tdi almost fully build up, turbo, manifolds, etc. on a Clarke 350kg...

The bolts are only m10 I think and dont think they go in to the housing very far, got flywheel and housing off ready to try but a Bit worried if 4 bolts will hold it on stand, I know its been done before as have seen pics of them on. Do you...

Yes I was wondering about that bung too.

I would grind the bolt heads off, remove the timing cover, strip that down and then remove the timing chest which could be fun! then you have full access to remains of the bolts, the worst three are normally the ones around the water gallery (top...

Funny how I did both Ebay links the same and they came out different. Thanks for letting me know, whether I remember or not is a different matter.

Thanks Borrowed that kit from a Mate. Got another bloody problem now though, Some of the nuts on timing case have rounded off, Tried everything to loose them off, left them with penetrating oil over night, Heat, and even those Irwin bolt...

Thanks Mate just read your post on your rebuild, Great Job you done there Mate, some great Info there will save it to look back on. Have not checked my bearings yet but gonna try and get engine out tomorrow to fit on stand and will have a...

Got the head off today, not experienced enough to tell if its OK or not, there is some cross hatching on 3 of the bores number 1 at front had oil as you can see in pics, rods seem to be ok .

Took my Toyota Hilux head to them for pressure test and skim last year, 100 quid, the bores were ok so I got one of them honing things that fits on drill and honed the bores, kept the origional pistons but put new rings on and everything was...

Cleasby’s good for rebore cost me £240+ vat 2 year ago on the 2286cc, but the 200tdi practicallly had no bore wear could still see the original honing marks after 125k

One other thing to do while it is out is to change the rear crank shaft seal. I recommend you use a Dowty type seal ERR2532 OEM along with a new gasket between block and flywheel housing. Follow book instructions with fitting the seal.

Thanks Mate found the 200tdi manual, some others too. Depending what state Injectors are in I might get them rebuilt, there is a guy local that does them. Will get a few more bits off over the weekend, Once the heads off will probably get it...

Started to strip it down, Got the manifold, Turbo and Starter off one side. on with the other side, bit nervous about taking glow plugs and Injectors out, heard storys about them been hard to loosen but soaked them with penetrating oil...

Apologies, numbers back to front, **** eyes and the mobile do not work!

The PO started it 4 years ago when he bought it, it had stood like that for about 10 years before without starting so only started the once in the last 14 years or so. Not sure but think the best thing is to when I get time and funds is just...

It does have oil in and seems to turn freely by hand.

Thanks for advice. If I decide to give it a quick start up, which of the fuel pipes do I run from can, 1 2 or 3 ?

Diesels can get hot in the combustion chamber area very quickly.

There’s several 200tdi check and rebuild thread in the engine section if you search, nice engine to work on And also a good 200tdi rebuild article here https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/blogs/news?page=2