Recent content by bill.hiscock

Borrowed from another post but may be handy for people.

No low fuel light on the dash. Just the single green with black tracer going from the gauge out to the sender.

Earthing the green and black wire results in the gauge moving up. Should it infact be connected to the non insulated terminal?

Hi all, Trying to diagnose a faulty (reading zero) fuel gauge and thought I’d first check the wiring. Can anyone confirm that the wires are in-fact on the correct terminals? There after, I’ll look to pull the float and check it’s physical operation. Many thanks.

Good afternoon all. I'm still a long way off painting and finishing my project, however I'm looking to draw upon the extensive knowledge of fellow forum members. I have a 1979 109" commercial, affectionately nicknamed 'Patch' due to a different colour on every panel. The plan is to return it...

Am I also correct in that as my 109" has two wheel cylinders on the front, the one with the bleed nipple is on the bottom...? Strange design if you ask me.

Thank you guys. I purchased a pressure bleeder, but haven't had any great success in sealing the cap to the reservoir tight enough not to spray brake fluid all over my bulkhead. A friend has a vac bleeder, make have to bribe him with Tea and cake.

The Saga continues. Shoes adjusted. Until they bite then one click back. Still can't get a firm pedal (takes two/three pumps to get pressure). Doesn't appear to have any air in the lines any more (could well be wrong though). Going to double check pedal height, backstop and push rod tonight. It...

So, an update on the above. I now have an air free system and a working brake pedal. A replacement master cylinder has seemed to fix the issue. Whether the first 'new' master was faulty or I had damaged it by not bleeding it first, I guess we will never know. Installing the 2nd new master...

Thanks all. Got home tonight and set the pedal and pushrod as per the book. Drum adjusters all the way out and had a got at bleeding. Still no ‘full’ pedal. Fluid doesn’t seem to be being drawn out of the reservoir at all. removed the whole tower assembly as I have a (2nd) new master arriving...

I did wonder if the pushrod was too long and bottoming out on the pedal tower body. Need to be in front of the car really.

Agreed! Is there a base setting for new pushrods? I’ve read 1.5mm of free play before master cylinder piston take up. Oh yes. You seem to chase problems to the next weak link too. Especially with brakes.

Thanks for the info. Interested as to why they would have moved during the time the master was removed. I’ll hack it up and see if there is any outward adjustment.

Hi Kermit_rr Thanks for the reply. Yes, I believe so. It just takes 5-10 seconds for the pedal to feel 'recharged' with fluid again. full stroke available on the master. I haven't played with the adjusters at all since fitting the new master, as I hadn't changed any slaves or friction...

Hi all, First time back on the forums for a long time. Used to be old Minis, now its Land Rovers. Same issues, just bigger parts. I've recently replaced the Brake master cylinder on my new (to me) 109" Series 3. As far as I can tell, the new Bearmach BR2227 cylinder is the same as the one I...