Recent content by Bailes1992

Morning all, Picked up the Defender last night off my Uncle who has been using it to lug gear around the last few weeks. I was planning this week to change all the transmission oils over to fully synthetic oils. A whine has developed which is directly proportional to the output speed of the...

This is usually because the synthetic oil cleans sludge that's built up around seals over years of use. I'm currently running my 300TDi on a diet of heavy duty diesel engine oil and short oil change intervals to help clean up 21 years/76k of deposits and Forte seal conditioner to help soften...

The R380 in my Defender seems to prefer MTF94 over ATF. MTF94 being a 75w80 GL-4 oil therefore the 75w90 I want to use will only be slightly thicker at operating temperature. Also the 75w90 GL-4 I want to use is fully synthetic where as the MTF94 I use is a mineral oil so the 75w90 will have...

An oil with a 0w rating with contain better quality base oils. Castrol Edge 0w30 is a full PAO/Group 4 oil where Halfords Fully Synthetic 5w30 Ford spec oil will be a Group 3/super hydrocracked mineral based oil.

There's a few gear/transmission oils now that meet GL-4 & GL-5. This means they have the correct EP additives for diffs and the transfer box but won't cause any issues with brass in the gearbox. I'm trying to minimise the amount of oils I have in my stash. I'm hoping that I can use the same...

Is there any really good quality crossmembers out there at the moment? I know everyone seems to reccomend Pressbrake but he doesn't seem to do them any more.

Can you fit a later crossmember with the rear tub mounts on the inside? I'm planning on painting the truck this year and it would be nice to be able to paint behind them.

That's the plan. Just need to work out if the chassis rails can be patched and replace just the rear crossmember or if I'm going to need the crossmember with short extensions. Looking at the chassis it's been replaced before but nobody has ever injected the cavities.

Just after a bit of advice really, I know there's a million threads on this but I already have products I want to use up. I'm currently stripping back the layers of Waxoyl that's been applied to the Land Rover ready to repair any rust and retreat again. The majority of the truck is looking...

I've run along the bottom of the rocker cover with a cotton ear bud and it's totally clean. I'm convinced this is the injector seals.

It certainly seems oily but there's no oil comming from the rocker cover at all. Where else could oil come from?

Gutted. Took it out for a drive and the engine is covered in oil again! :frown: :cry: This was after 3 miles... The oil level hasn't been dropping quick enough for this amount of fluid and the new rocker cover gasket isn't leaking anywhere so I can only assume it's the injector seals...

I'm more of a Bilt Hamber guy myself. I'll probably go with Dynax S50 for all the cavities. The existing waxoyl that's been put underneath has held up pretty well so I may just give it a good clean and a top up with more black waxoyl. Or strip it off and go for Dynax UB?

Managed to get a day working on the Defender yesterday. Engine needed a service (although I haven't done the fuel filter yet) and it's habit of leaking oil is driving me nuts. As I was planning on replacing the valve caps and adjusting the valve clearances I decided to remove the glowplugs to...

I had plans for a boost gauge to be fitted on top of the dash by the drivers side A pillar. Therefore I decided it wasn't vital it matched any other dials, which is a good thing because standard these things boost to 15psi and tuned around 18-20psi and I managed to find the perfect gauge...