bahteles's latest activity

I did plug back the AAP with the new MAP, still runs poorly (not sure if it's the new MAP that was not working or if the problem is elsewhere) I've install a turbo gauge and plugged from the turbo pipe to measure the 1.4bar, without the bypass...

Hmmm other then lack of power above 3k rpm the truck always starts with no problem and runs well. It's a cheap repair sure but I'm afraid of messing up the injectors lol then it becomes a very expensive repair. I will study how to do it or find...

Question if I did the wastegate bypass does the ECU still can do overboost to protect the turbo if I set the threads too low?

So quick update to you guys, I cancel the order for the launch scanner because a friend with a Nanocom was gonna read my truck but things didnt work out so anyways, I purchase a a new MAP and it also didn't work (although it was a cheap chinese...

+1^^^ ... just make sure that the electrical connector to not have a chance to touch earth cos it's on the same fuse with the wastegate modulator and MAF sensor(this one will become useless on de-EGRd 10P engine)

Yes, that's what every EGR blanking kit manual says, what I'm asking is: can I remove the whole modulator and all the vacuum hoses? What purpose they have if I removed the EGR already

Hey guys I blank my EGR a while ago and a friend advised me to remove the vacuum modulator all together. Mine is a 2001 Td5 Eu2 10p Now some websites warn you that by doing that it can affect brake, but according to the manual it doesn't...

Launch is a reputable chinese tool with overall good reviews, the main problem of all these kind of multivehicle OBD2 readers is the Td5 EMS which is an OBD2 unfriendly protocol and there can be false codes and erroneous live readings, for the...

Seriously mate, take @sierrafery 's advice, he knows what he is talking about. The Map/iat sensor is much cheaper to replace. If you do that and it isn't better then have another think about paying shedloads for a new Eu2 AAP, if you can find...

Oh yeah I will definitelly go with @sierrafery advice, btw thank you both for helping me figure this out! A MAP will be much easier and cheaper to find here then a AAP. I've got a Launch CRP123e, I don't really have much options around here and...

Which proves that the AAP sensor was OK based on live readings too as it's default is 100kPa sharp and disconnecting it the ECU neglected the MAP reading too and the engine ran better on the max 1 bar default... unfortunately the guy didnt...

Mine is a Eu2 and I'm having a hard time finding a new AAP sensor, can only find used ones so maybe this is my only option. I've purchase a scanner tool, hopefuly it will read map, maf and aap. I've also search other threads and found another...

I tried that and with the MAP/Iat disconnected it ran just as cr@p. But you can't do any harm trying it.

* Update * So, @sierrafery I disconnected the AAP sensor the one attached to the Airbox and OMG the difference is crazy! I always knew the truck was not running properly and tried it out everything out there but this is it! It runs so much...

According to manual if I disconnect my MAP sensor it would ready a default value, so in theory it would make the car run better? Also, I'm having a hard time finding the bosch 281002205 but I did find an alternative BOSCH 0281002316 that looks...

If your truck is very slow to pick up, even with your foot on the floor and then it suddenly does, that is another system of a bust MAP or IAT, at least it was with mine. Cleaning ti made no difference, so I got a Bosch, solved the problem. But...

That one would have other symptoms most likely starting issues or eventually a slight power loss if it reads too high but you can rule it out by unplugging it cos then the ECU goes to a 60*C default for the engine to have power

@sierrafery I just had a very interesting discovery lol, since you mentioned MAP sensor I was looking at at prices online and notice that the pictures was very different from the one I have in the car, it fits perfect though... So it's probably a...

Great post thank you, believe or not, importing a Nanocom to Brazil is insanely expensive due to taxes and shipping. I can find pretty much any part I need here and it's not that expensive, so far everything I replace I really need it since the...

Hi, unfortunately without a proper diagnostic tool all you can do is to guess and spend more money on parts hoping that it will be fixed eventually what's certain is that if at 8 threads on the wastegate rod is not going to overboost that engine...

Unfortunately I can't, nanocoms are not available here and to import one it will cost a arm and a leg o_O I don't really know what else I can do without a reader

Hey guys I'm having this annoying issue since I got this truck 6 months ago, I know this ain't no racing car but I mean cmon it's just way too slow to build momentum, 0-100km/h takes 3 weeks and top speed barely reachs 120km/h At full throtle it...

Glad you sorted it. What’s the next issue going to be. You know a Land Rover is always waiting to test you…..

Thank you so much @Steven Sheppard I've changed the fuel temp sensor and clean the connectors and no more cut out!! This was driving me crazy haha, again thank you! - Truck is driving way better now

I did miss the EML. My bad.... I do remember at the time that I did get the odd EML but I can't say it was the FT that caused it. For me all wiring had got a little hard and brittle down the side and rear of the engine. I fixed the FT wiring...

Not late at all I still have the issue lol but I switch my CKP sensor to the old one, it runs a little rough but at least it never cuts out the engine... Thank you for sharing your experience, I will take a look at this, it's probably a bad wire...

I might be a bit late to the party here but I had this 12 months ago. When my TD5 Disco 2 hit 2500 RPM it cut out. Every time and you had to restart it from the key which wasn't great on a motorway. When I investigated I found that the fuel...