Recent content by ar1g3

Everything finally back together, still need to test it but first some other jobs while the car is in the garage. Some advice for those tackling this job: - main thing needed is 2 ways of supporting the gearbox, one static and one jack. You will need to switch them, and be able to remove the...

I did not, but now it's too late as it's partly assembled again. But I think my solution will work, the o-ring size is within tenths of a mm of what was fitted before.

Well after weeks of waiting for parts the first steps to getting everything back together were made today. These are the little f***ers that get loose over time: Partnumber TYP000010, still available at Land Rover. I bought new ones as they include a wavy spring washer, which on the old bolts...

Well coincidentally I have a set of these! I tried them before but they don't work, they don't tilt enough and the wide part hits the prop shaft so it's impossible to get them on.

That's what I'm afraid of too. I did the front diff pinion seal today. Based on the above feedback I started looking if I could mimick the tool with standard extensions and sockets. The tool looks to be a short 9/16 socket with integrated extension piece. So with that in mind I started going...

Thanks didn't know this existed! And big brother google conveniently displayed an ad for this tool right below your reply so I already know where to get it. For future reference the tool is - Sealey SX0110 - Laser Tools 6151 - Britpart DA1065 Seems applicable for all LR up until P38 (series...

Hi, this concerns my '99 4.0 automatic p38. I have removed the prop shafts to allow me to remove the transfer case, and fix a leaky front diff pinion seal. Now, I see the 4 prop shaft bolts on each flange need to be torqued to 48Nm. But how do I do this? The UJ's are in the way of getting a...

Thanks! I'll try to update here with some pics and adaptions to Stufer's guide for future reference.

Yeah they seem like a good deal! But given the price and the state of my car I will go the cheap route now. I just want to get her driving again, she needs to prove that she's worth spending this kind of money first :p

Is Stufer's guide also useable for the LHD version you think? I'm going to do this job very soon.

Thanks! I have suspended the transfer box from the blue bar you can see in the photos, then I could slide everything to the back of the pit on wooden planks. I jacked the gearbox up on the sump with a wooden block and some brackets to prevent the jack from slipping. Then I could take the rear...

Thanks! I think I will not touch those, both the chain and VCU are quite pricy and the car is a bit of a shed atm. For that price I will just deal with the extra work should they go wrong. She's out! Now I need to get the transfer case off that jack so I can jack up the gearbox, it's...

So I'm close to pulling off the transfer case now, probably something for tonight or tomorrow. What I was wondering: my car has 263k km on the clock, when I have the transfer case off any things I should change while I'm in this far? VCU, chain,..? Just to prevent having to do this job again...

Thanks! I will be removing the crossmember so there will be nothing in the way of the downpipes. I will also not be taking the gearbox out, I'll leave that in place. I can get to the sensor trigger wheel from the back of the gearbox so I will remove the rear extension housing from the gearbox...

I'm quite sure that this is not possible and I will have to drop the transfer box. I'd like to avoid taking the front exhaust pipes (with the cats) off, contrary to RAVE procedure. Only reason why this may be required that I can see is the wiring to the lambda sensor. Anybody know if there's...