ar1g3's latest activity

Everything finally back together, still need to test it but first some other jobs while the car is in the garage. Some advice for those tackling this job: - main thing needed is 2 ways of supporting the gearbox, one static and one jack. You will...

I did not, but now it's too late as it's partly assembled again. But I think my solution will work, the o-ring size is within tenths of a mm of what was fitted before.

Did you try Wych Bearings? They've always come up trumps for me.

Well after weeks of waiting for parts the first steps to getting everything back together were made today. These are the little f***ers that get loose over time: Partnumber TYP000010, still available at Land Rover. I bought new ones as they...

Well coincidentally I have a set of these! I tried them before but they don't work, they don't tilt enough and the wide part hits the prop shaft so it's impossible to get them on.

That's what I'm afraid of too. I did the front diff pinion seal today. Based on the above feedback I started looking if I could mimick the tool with standard extensions and sockets. The tool looks to be a short 9/16 socket with integrated...

Yer buying a tool to use once then loose it in the abyss of the shed sh!te, Nylocks n 2 spanners is how its been done since series landys were made. Torquing nuts n bolts is only good for new items not old over tightened ones that came off lol.

Thanks didn't know this existed! And big brother google conveniently displayed an ad for this tool right below your reply so I already know where to get it. For future reference the tool is - Sealey SX0110 - Laser Tools 6151 - Britpart DA1065...

or get the correct tool ?

Hi, this concerns my '99 4.0 automatic p38. I have removed the prop shafts to allow me to remove the transfer case, and fix a leaky front diff pinion seal. Now, I see the 4 prop shaft bolts on each flange need to be torqued to 48Nm. But how do...

I wonder if Audi ever wonder why they are selling so many heater cores? They may think it's a dodgy design they have.

Thanks! I'll try to update here with some pics and adaptions to Stufer's guide for future reference.

Never seen Stufer's guide. There is a bit more room to work on the LHD but I seem to remember a bracket that made access harder. If the screw comes out without a battle, it's an easy job. Best to fit a socket head screw when reassembling with...

Yeah they seem like a good deal! But given the price and the state of my car I will go the cheap route now. I just want to get her driving again, she needs to prove that she's worth spending this kind of money first :p

I would have a look at what they do for the Ashcroft's refurbed transfer boxes. Definitely VCU and chain, you'll be amazed how much quieter a new chain is. I think there's a bearing as well. By the time I priced it all up it wasn't far off the...

Is Stufer's guide also useable for the LHD version you think? I'm going to do this job very soon.

Thanks! I have suspended the transfer box from the blue bar you can see in the photos, then I could slide everything to the back of the pit on wooden planks. I jacked the gearbox up on the sump with a wooden block and some brackets to prevent...

Take it to the and of the pit, jack it up a little higher and slide it onto the garage floor👍 As for the g/box, lift it on the sump but try and support well so it doesn't roll off on you. They really are effing heavy 💪

Thanks! I think I will not touch those, both the chain and VCU are quite pricy and the car is a bit of a shed atm. For that price I will just deal with the extra work should they go wrong. She's out! Now I need to get the transfer case off...

VCU maybe but some last for ages, depends I think if you keep the tyre wear even front to rear and whether it's road or off road use. Some say the Morse chain but IMO unless the car has had a hard life towing or off roading I suspect it will be...

Agreed, I've got 254k miles on my old tank and she stomps around like Errrr a Tank😳

So I'm close to pulling off the transfer case now, probably something for tonight or tomorrow. What I was wondering: my car has 263k km on the clock, when I have the transfer case off any things I should change while I'm in this far? VCU...

Thanks! I will be removing the crossmember so there will be nothing in the way of the downpipes. I will also not be taking the gearbox out, I'll leave that in place. I can get to the sensor trigger wheel from the back of the gearbox so I will...

If the exhaust is standard, the front cat pipes go over the gearbox cross-member & then join before the centre box. So you cannot tilt the engine with the cats connected. Best way is to unplug the sensors & then disconnect the downpipes...

I'm quite sure that this is not possible and I will have to drop the transfer box. I'd like to avoid taking the front exhaust pipes (with the cats) off, contrary to RAVE procedure. Only reason why this may be required that I can see is the wiring...

Anyone know if its possible to reach into the rear housing where the park gear is from the intermediate housing, if the valve body is removed? I've spent two hours searching for photos or videos and poking the gearbox with the borescope but can't...

Well found that guy👌

So I finally found time to continue on my quest. Took the pan off, and took the sensor out. Then stuck a borescope in the hole. Not good news. Seems like indeed the bolts for the trigger wheel came loose. Hopefully they didn't do too much...

Thanks for doing that! I checked from either pin to the gearbox casing with the ECU plug (C1320) disconnected and have infinite resistance there. I do get readings with the ECU plug connected but that's not the correct way to measure I think...

I have been out and re-checked the sensor readings. I'm a bit embarrassed to find I have a broken lead that goes open circuit at certain angles on my DVM which resulted in the readings I gave you. The re-test shows 307 ohms both ways round...