Anaconda's latest activity

I am nowhere near being an expert but from what I have read on here you need to check the readings from the cps when starting.

A couple of the guys on D2BC have fitted that one - apparently just needs the connector on the cable changing for the one from the old fan.

Aha I remember now, big rubber grommet. Is it lhd in Canada? I think it is. There should be a bleed nipple in the top of the slave cylinder next to where the flexi pipe goes into it. You might be able to undo from inside the engine bay with...

Sounds like a poor idea to me.

Sorry, what do you mean, what are you trying to do bleed the clutch? All I did was release the bleed nipple and let it flow through, make sure the master cylinder stays full of fluid. Have you even located the slave cylinder?

Did they really use aluminium bolts? Never heard of such a thing.

Maybe @sierrafery might have some helpful ideas. I'm reasonably confident he will need some live data to be able to help though.

I have a friend who is a windscreen fitter, it's well known that various RR products leak through the screen, behind the dash and into the loom and ECUs, requiring replacement. I would sell whatever vehicle you have and buy something decent.

If its a 2a with a cross shaft it's pretty straightforward if I remember correctly. Just gravity bleed ours with no problem, guess you could take the transmission tunnel or floor out if you wanted, pretty straightforward.

It's the seals, they are rubbish, it's quite well documented for years. We fitted "OEM" both leaked almost straight away. Out of principle I made the supplier refund the money. Bought 2 NAK seals, damaged one as they are a very tight fit into...

Many thanks, might be a good idea to keep an eye on it. Bought from Rockauto before without a problem.

Thanks for the reply. Didn't know if the motor was available separately or with fan blade as a complete unit.

Is the aircon fan motor available to buy for a D2 Td5 (2004). Apparently the fuse has blown and the fan motor has seized up, although a poke with a screwdriver got it working again for now. Hoping it will stay working, but I doubt it. So might be...

Still looking, surprised you haven't sorted it since you asked the question 2 years ago.

Available at Island 4x4, or were last time I looked.

Sorry for that didn't think the first one posted correctly just me being dumb Thanks for your reply Anaconda will try NAK seal

You have posted two threads for some reason.

NAK, buy two as they are tight to push into the axle casing.

I went for the cheap option, only about £300! I got one of those chinese made Static arc MIGs and bit the bullet and got a proper gas bottle to go with as I knew I needed to go gas really. But it totally paid for itself just for this one job so...

Seriously though if you are paying and the rest of the chassis is OK then bite the bullet and get the crossmember replaced , if it's a keeper.

A light tapping stick helps, when the 'ring' changes you know there's a hole/thin bit somewhere near ....

I bought a welder especially to do the same job. Ok it cost about £500 or so but cheaper than paying for welding.

I guess I should mention the cross member had been replaced atleast once before.

I’ve got the professional equipment for the job.

🙄

Carefully inspect the rear chassis legs all the way up to where the trailing arms attach to the chassis before making a decision. Use a pointy thing as part of your decision making. I repaired the same area on my son's Ninety a couple of years...

I always use Blue Hylomar in addition to any gasket I fit.

Ok, I'm out.

Does it have a dummy cat or no cat at all?

I have used Britpart OEM ones 9 years ago and still going strong, unlike the poly ones which lasted 1 week. You buy the standard cheap Britpart ones and they are only any good if you are selling it.