Alibro's latest activity

Send it back.

Agreed, if the assistant is pumping the pedal with the bleed nipple open, every time they lift their foot air gets in.

Never had any success with that methond on any car. 2 person method for me is: 1) open bleed valve & assistant pushes pedal steadily to floor & hold. 2) close bleed valve & assistant releases pedal. 3) repeat 1 & 2 until no bubbles on fluid...

Hi, First you should buy an used door lock for your door, take the right version unless it will not works. Then you can figure out how it work. The outside door handle will not help you, put back the handle cable in place, but first remove...

I call Click bait!

Slacker! 😋

It was a while ago but IIRC the car I looked at had a button to start it so the guy may have wired it into the starter relay. I did a similar thing myself recently in my wifes Ford Kuga. It stopped recognising the clutch was pushed in even...

Having fitted a new clutch, new slave and attached this to a known working master cylinder I was not at all surprised to find the clutch bite was in the carpet. It has happened before but never really found not why it happens and how to fix it...

Bypassing the immobiliser is possible as I once saw a Freelander where it was done but I don't know how. Does the immobiliser send CAN messages to the ECU or is it as simple as a GND or 12V signal?

All of my Freelanders had original exhausts so they must have been well made. And yes as Nodge says the power steering hose is always flattened like that. It had me concerned too the first time I saw it.

The flat hose is the PS return line, and yes they are flat. I believe the flat hose is some form of crude noise reduction system, there the hose can absorb noise from the pump or rack. Don't worry about it, unless it starts leaking.

Spent the day doing checks around the rear diff seal and underside. Diff seal region often looked dirty and damp. The rear silencer box looked like it had been sprayed with oil mist at some point before I took ownership nearly 5 years ago. But...

I like the way you're thinking. :banana:

The NZ crew will need at least 6 weeks confirmed notice to ship the cars over. Oh, and a spectacularly successful Go Fund Me page!

And if @GrumpyGel don’t show, then he has no commitment 😉🤪😂

Currently working on Chademo charging and if it works I'm a definite maybe. :D

I think @Alibro needs to give the EV motor a proper run and show it to us in person.

Can also confirm that mine (Cairns Blue - looks to be the same as @martin41076) is also peeling on the roof at the rear (big patch) and some smaller patches just above the windscreen. Quick job with some spray primer and an artist’s paintbrush...

The case and headers arrived today. :) The Evri driver mustn't have had his glasses on as he dropped it off at a neighbours door. Thankfully he took a photo of the parcel at the door and I was able to recognise the address. Anyway I have it now...

I should have posted this link last time https://openinverter.org/wiki/ZombieVerter_VCU#Introducing:_the_%22ZombieVerter%22_VCU_-_a_general_purpose_EV_conversion_VCU.

'Tis the same on my blue F1... flaky on a couple of the rear doors. I still have a LR blue rattle can (forget the colour name) made up for it!

I've seen the same issue with a blue Freelander. It seems the blue paint doesn't stick well to the undercoat for whatever reason.

It didn't have the usual exhausts sticking out the back, each side of the spare wheel, so I'm pretty sure it didn't have an engine. Hopefully I'll see it again, as I'd like to know more about it.

Do you think it was genuine? I've seen LR Time working on D3's but no idea how difficult it would be to electrify.

Wimen!!!!! :oops: Now I know a little bit more about Savvycan and how to use it to take CAN dumps I could probably have a better chance of making an FL2 work without its ECU. The important thing is to get a CAN dump of the car running before the...

At work, we can now get 300+ah lithium batteries out of China for basically the same price as we source 2 x 120ah lead acid locally.

I have to keep reminding myself of this when catching up with this thread :cool:

Click click click.. sounds like my dodgy CV joint

The Zombieverter is a board that was mainly designed to control OEM hardware like inverters/motors, heaters, chargers etc by sending the appropriate CAN signals and it's constantly being updated with new hardware being added to the menu's. It can...

Is that the same company that built computer keyboards 20 or 30 years ago? If so they've come on a bit. 😊