Recent content by Al2O3

Ah, sorry Julian. I was just saying some of the Defender 300Tdi's have flanged rear drive shafts, not that they will fit a salisbury diff. I've no experience of them, but from what I've read they are not interchangeable parts.

Mine is another vote for the chassis swap. Chances are the steel of the chassis rail behind the gearbox cross member flanges will be non existent, as well as all of the other holes you've already identified. As Hicap phill says, you're half way there. If you have the space and the budget, then...

Mine is a 1996 300Tdi and mine has them on. According to the LR parts catalogue, they were used from VIN - LA930456 Here's one on Paddocks part number FTC3270. The near side is FTC3271

Definitely sounds like the panhard rod bushes. Buy good quality bushes and tighten the bolts with a big, **** off, breaker bar. They have to be extraordinarily tight.

I have meego, but it was 11 years ago, so even if I could remember what I paid it would be right out of date. I do remember having to buy 'blind' pop rivets. I think that's what they were called. They have sealed heads, so water doesn't leak in through the rivet. Not sure why, cos water leaks in...

If the inside of the hoses to and from the turbo are covered in oil, then it sounds like it's pushing oily vapour through the cyclone breather. If that's the case it will be burning a certain amount of oil. The dark smoke coming out of the exhaust could also be poorly burnt fuel, so perhaps your...

One of the spade connectors used to drop off mine. Only ever noticed every MOT Can be pushed back on with fingers through the grille.

I rebuilt my 300Tdi ten years ago. It's a 96 plate. Rear cross member was shot and the outriggers were forming holes, so I decided to get a galv chassis. As shayne said, the hidden secrets, even at that age, were considerable. It'll be a biblical style miracle if you lift the body off and don't...

Sounds like you've done a good job so far. Don't quote me on these figures until we've checked a manual, but the bottom of the clutch pedal has to be set at 5.5" away from the floor and there needs to be a 1mm gap at the end of the master cylinder rod for it to be set properly. Or pretty close...

Lynall means the seals in either the slave or master have broken down and are contaminating the fluid with rubber. Change both, but you might as well change the contaminated fluid while you're on.

Have you investigated the hand brake drum as @dag019 suggested? This would be an excellent initial thing to do and could well turn out to be the issue. I've got a 300Tdi, rebuilt the whole vehicle, rebuilt the engine and replaced the clutch. If I was thinking about replacing the clutch again the...

I can't remember that much movement back over, but you must be right. If the rod isn't dropping out it must be attached to the fork and that amount of movement must be correct.

How is the rod moving so much?

Pretty sure the LT77 fitted in a Discovery had an elongated bell housing compared to the Defender. If your gearbox is out of a Discovery and is now mated to a Defender 200Tdi then that might be the issue. Having said that I'd have thought you would have encountered engine mounting issues as the...

I did the same as Brown about 9 years ago, so possibly on Brown's advice! I remember a post about needing to get OEM seals. I did the front calipers as the rear ones were too far gone to get all the pistons out so had to buy new rear calipers. I've just replaced those rear calipers, but the...