Recent content by adrianscarff

already got new belt ect, was due anyhow so will get spanners and camera going asap then update.. thanks :)

Have checked what you have said above and there is evidence of silicone being used and today after a good [ish] run i saw oil that seemed to be weeping from the side right where the cam carrier join's so you are bang on with your theory, best solution now i guess is to re-build cam carrier using...

have checked bolts are at correct tightness ;) not very easy to see where oil is coming from as there isnt any real sign of oil present above spark plug hole's within the plug hole. what is the correct sealant i need to use on that join?? thanks for all your help:)

i am pretty sure there is no sign of oil at the top or at the join its all at the bottom of the hole. whats the best way forward with this then? as i am going with your suggestion's first seeing as you lot no way more than me:o do i remove cam carrier and re-seal with correct sealant? or is...

sorry haven't explained myself fully:confused: sometimes there is no oil "on top" but when you pull the plug it is soaking in oil [looks like it was dipped in the stuff] i have ran some sealant round the plug hole's but it is still cutting out and there is still oil top and bottom!!! can the oil...

It is only really happening to no4, i can see the join and there is no visual sign of oil only the pool at the bottom around the pl:eek:ug

thanks for quick response buddy, i have taken it for a run after i put up this post and its getting up to temp then rough idle /misfire then stop.. pull no4 plug out its soaking in oil at both ends:mad: clean it up and it will after a fashion start and run but not for long, was thinking this...

hi all well didn't think i would be posting up yet another problem quite so bloody soon:mad: i have an unusual oil leak, i have oil covering my spark plugs:rolleyes: so i was thinking either valve stem oil seals have gone or piston ring's but here is where it is confusing me its only mainly on...

i am deffo not work shy or akin to using the odd spanner so as my love for the green oval grows i am sure i will stick with this bloody thing lol, your little mod seems like it will work so as i have access to a rover i will dig out the parts mentioned and give that a go, if it works ill put it...

glad you are ok, looks very bad. for all its failings your hippo has effectively saved your life.

thanks for all responses guys been out checked all of the above, cable ties a plenty and more lube than a prostitutes hand bag and its working [for now] as the car is a 1998 hippo in dire need of petrol and a match i will prob just leave it as is until that day it fails then look in mirror laugh...

pedal feels a little stiff but not overly so imo. i haven't checked oil level as yet so will do that in daylight :)

Ok so here i am again with yet another problem, i have searched this and other forum's before posting. There are similar problems but not the same so here it is! my clutch when car is cold is fine no problems at all but after driving for a while it becomes difficult but not impossible to select...

Sorry its taken ages to put this puppy to bed but its been a bloody long few days off work:rolleyes: Freelander all woking now:D . It was the fuel pump relay for anyone who might have same problems unsure how long for but thats the joys of ownership i guess:( thank you all for the helpful...

i guess it just falls down to luck, i use a good 3t trolly jack with a padded saddle but still drop a sturdy block of wood for good measure, its not that the engine weigh's so much but more good practice, as i said before luck never holds out forever and the sump on any motor is never infallible...