Sorry fanny, was out of coverage. I'll give it a go myself for today, but I DO appreciate the offer!

Release the pressure off air bag or your be fighting it as well, I'm off to re-build a hydraulic ram shortly.
 
Ram fixed, new seals and managed to replace a ball bearing by pinching one out of a bearing I had spare- works and doesn't appear to leak any more or creep.

Fixed your issue yet clarky?
 
Nope - something cropped up which meant I couldn't work on it this afternoon - never rains, but it pours! Hopefully give it a shot tomorrow, but have a good idea now, not just of what I did wrong in the first place (!), but also how to sort it. I shall squeal like a girl for assistance if I get stuck...
 
Leave the arse end up, just pull the 6mm Green coded pipe and the one with no code below it out of the valve block. Ease them out but hold them in at the same time, if you know what i mean. Don't let the pressure force them out as you depress collar. Hold them. Let the air bleed out slowly.

Wammers, I take it these are the two you are referring to:

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Are the other two (red and blue) for the rears, just out of interest?
 
Ok, everything suddenly got a damn sight easier after I deflated the air bags. Panhard rod is now reattached... And lesson learned!!

Just have to ratchet-strap the axle backwards so I can bolt up the rear radius arm mount... Then on to the other side. Fag break first....
 
Ok, everything suddenly got a damn sight easier after I deflated the air bags. Panhard rod is now reattached... And lesson learned!!

Just have to ratchet-strap the axle backwards so I can bolt up the rear radius arm mount... Then on to the other side. Fag break first....


Told ya, listen to uncle Tony. :D:D
 
ALL sorted!! Once I got the axle jacked up into the right place, with the bags deflated, it was a piece of wee-wee. Other side came straight out, no dramas, and straight back in also.

Incidentally, I've found a dead easy method of removing the old bushes... Just drill 1 hole, right at the edge, as close to the plastic as possible, then 'bend' the drill back towards the centre, moving it up and down, until you're through the plastic and JUST touching the metal (don't over-do it though, or you'll drill through the bore in the arm as well!) - you can then simply tap the old bushes out with a hammer and a bar. Takes literally 60 seconds to do!

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67e6afc4.jpg
 
And gents, many thanks to those who offered advice - couldn't have done it without you!

And a special thanks to those who offered to come out and help - VERY much appreciated.
 
Great job well done Clarkey I've been watching with real interest,as i think mine will need doing shortly, it was good to see all the help and advice offered on here what a great forum. but think i'll need to put mine in garage to be done. all the best really glad you got sorted.I was asking on an earlier thread which were the best bushes to replace with original rubber or the plastic type as matter of interest which did you use.
 
Great job well done Clarkey I've been watching with real interest,as i think mine will need doing shortly, it was good to see all the help and advice offered on here what a great forum. but think i'll need to put mine in garage to be done. all the best really glad you got sorted.I was asking on an earlier thread which were the best bushes to replace with original rubber or the plastic type as matter of interest which did you use.

Easiest, Poly bush. Best, rubber.
 
Ok.... Bugger! Now have an EAS Fault that won't clear. Tried the 'door open 15 mins' thing before I did anything, looks like I didn't get it switched off in time when it started to go haywire.

I have all 4 lights, dash arrow, front is on bumpstops, rear is on high (ish). Do I need a kicker to clear this, or is there any other way? (I've searched already)
 
Any merit in pulling the pipes for the rears to put the arse on the deck to match the front? Maybe it's seeing it as a sensor fail due to the height mis-match?
 
Nope, got no P38 electronica at all.

I pulled the rear pipes, put the arse on the deck, and it appeared to partially cure it... Car now raises to what looks like 'normal' ride height but dash still says 'EAS FAULT' and I can't select any ride heights. At least it appears drivable, so I can road test the new bushes...
 
Any merit in pulling the pipes for the rears to put the arse on the deck to match the front? Maybe it's seeing it as a sensor fail due to the height mis-match?

You should have dropped axle away from body with stands still under chassis, connected pipes and let it put a bit of air in before you dropped it. Hope you have not damaged a sensor. All lamps come on when you switch on to do self check then should go out when you start engine. Excepting for the where it's at light, and the flashiing where it should be lamp.You can try dropping arse end. But it may end up needing a EASunlock or kicker to sort it.
 
Happy ending then, now much as this forum does run on **** taking, people do care believe it or not.
 

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