Well looks like it has worked pretty hard for over 40 years. But they are about the most basic motor vehicle that are still around in numbers today and can be repaired without the need to ask a computer what the problem is.
A sticky brake may be the issue with the steering.
A change of fluid may help with the clutch issue, have a look in the reservoir and if fluid is blackish then at least in the short term a change may help.
Is there a clutch pedal return spring? Could it be missing or worn? The brake pedal on my 101 was reluctant to return until i fitted a new spring.
 
Rear diff soldered ? If you have both wheels off the ground and in gear/hand brake on you should be able to turn both wheels. This is because the diff will be doing its job.[one on the other side goes in reverse]
If out of gear hand brake off and you spin a wheel either the other wheel turns as above or the prop shaft turns.
Erm, with the handbrake on i would hope you couldn't turn any wheel... :oops:
 
No mate, Land Rovers right up to the end of original Defender have a transmission Hand brake on the back of the transfer box, and therefore acts on the prop shaft. Works fine as long as both rear wheels are on the ground or with series if it is in four wheel drive in which case it will act on all four wheels if they are on the ground
When jacking up on any slope it is recommended chocks be used.
Try with yours yfo866, lift both rear wheels off the ground hand brake on and you will see.
 
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a quite broken half axle :(

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And it looks like the other broken bit is on the diff?
 
That half shaft has had a tremendous amount of torque put through it for that to happen. I have known the stub in the diff to have welded itself in place from the heat generated as shaft twists apart.
Given the welded diff and because of that the other half shaft may well have been put under similar strain I recon sourcing another axle will most likely be the best option.
 
You advise to Change the other half too? I Will remove it to check condition first.
Would this 2.25 diesel engine have enough torque to make this?
If the broken bit hรกs welded to the diff i Will have to disassemble it completely, right?
 
Given that the diff is welded the same amount of torque will have gone to the other shaft as well, however such breakages often happen when a wheel has bounced high in the air and the power is still on when it lands back down.
The other shaft and diff will need to come out for any repairs. The shaft should be looked at very carefully and if any sign of twisting at either end then dump it.
Mike at Britannica Restorations [Salisbury diff] has some videos worth looking at.
 
Given that the diff is welded the same amount of torque will have gone to the other shaft as well, however such breakages often happen when a wheel has bounced high in the air and the power is still on when it lands back down.
The other shaft and diff will need to come out for any repairs. The shaft should be looked at very carefully and if any sign of twisting at either end then dump it.
Mike at Britannica Restorations [Salisbury diff] has some videos worth looking at.
NExt step Will BE to remove the other half shaft for inspection ...
 
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Ok, it looks like we have a problem: my garagem has very little lateral space - I could remove the half shaft from the left side, but I cannot remove the right side half shaft before it hits the wall - bummer.

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It really looks like nobody uses the diff drain bolt for a long long time. Will I be able to do it?
 

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Soak with plus gas/RP90 or similar release agent and Breaker bar. Heat is also often your friend.
Wall is not your friend but at least you can pull the diff now and inspect the shafts inner end later.
 
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The rest of the diff bolts dont look much better, but should be ok.
I only have 1 hour per day to work on the landy, so this will take some time...
 
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Ok, it looks like we have a problem: my garagem has very little lateral space - I could remove the half shaft from the left side, but I cannot remove the right side half shaft before it hits the wall - bummer.

View attachment 348508

It really looks like nobody uses the diff drain bolt for a long long time. Will I be able to do it?

Just put the other wheel on and roll it out the door then pull the shaft and push it back in. Or drill a big ole in the wall :eek:.

Bit of release fluid of your choice as suggested, but I think you will find it will come out without to much trouble same as the diff pan bolts.

If you have managed to pull that shaft that much (with ease) then I would guess its not twisted. It is also far enough out to get the diff out as it is.
You do have a manual for the salisbary diff dont you? cos you will need somesort of spreader to get the center out. Not sure anybody has warned you of this yet.

Heres a little fred https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/salisbury-diff-removal-and-re-assembly.70778/

Good luck

J
 
Just put the other wheel on and roll it out the door then pull the shaft and push it back in. Or drill a big ole in the wall :eek:.
Bit of release fluid of your choice as suggested, but I think you will find it will come out without to much trouble same as the diff pan bolts.

If you have managed to pull that shaft that much (with ease) then I would guess its not twisted. It is also far enough out to get the diff out as it is.
It was really easy to remove it, so I hope that it should be ok.
You do have a manual for the salisbary diff dont you? cos you will need somesort of spreader to get the center out. Not sure anybody has warned you of this yet.
I have been reading on the web and it looks like some do not need a spreader and can be extracted with no effort, and other do need it.
I do not have one, but might try to build a very basic one if needed.
Thanks for the link, must absorb most information before digging in :)
Good luck

J
 
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On a completely different subject (although nearby), I need to remove all liquid from the tank, because the PO filled it with water to have weight on the back of the landy.
He added a fuel tank to the cab, but I intend to use the main tank and remove the extra one. This screw is the the drain of the fuel tank, right? Do I need to remove the tank to remove the diff?

Thanks once again for all the help!
 
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Replacing clutch master cylinder on mine today.
Have you watched any of the Salisbury diff "working on videos"?
The pan spreader in @marjon's link is the official one but it is possible to make up a simpler one. Again see Britannica restorations for explanations.
 
I have been reading on the web and it looks like some do not need a spreader and can be extracted with no effort, and other do need it.
I do not have one, but might try to build a very basic one if needed.
I was just trying to make you aware of something,but you seem to have that covered๐Ÿ‘
If it falls out I would have to say it has not been done properly (never worked on a sals diff).
Yes I am sure something can be knocked up to get it out without spending for the proper tool.

So are you now gonna build a wider garage :D.

J
 
I was just trying to make you aware of something,but you seem to have that covered๐Ÿ‘
If it falls out I would have to say it has not been done properly (never worked on a sals diff).
Yes I am sure something can be knocked up to get it out without spending for the proper tool.

So are you now gonna build a wider garage :D.
I wish I could! I am happy to have some space to work on, but it is very very tight. I say to my wife I do a lot of yoga on the garage :D
I would like to change the rear tub on this landy, and there in one guy selling one for a good price, but I dont think I have enough space for that :(
 

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