T

TRXnMe

Active Member
Well, with the help of the wife I fitted the recon VCU and second hand propshafts I sourced off eBay to the wife's freelander today, I'm now knackered but happy.

While I was under there I noticed there is a sticker on thhe ird, it says that the unit is suppled with no oil in and must be filled before use. Is this normal, or is it possiible we have a recon ird on the beast?

Also, how much play should I expect in the rear diff mountings? While trying to spin the rear wheel to turn the prop shaft I notice quite a lot of play in the mountings, about an inch or so of movement, with just the wife's weight turning the rear wheel.

Having taken it for a quick spin, and hammered the throttle in first and reverse, there are no nasty noises from any where, so I'm reasonably happy now :)

Next stop Halfords to pick up some slim torx sockets as mine wouldn't let me get at the front prop shaft fastening properly, I got them tight by wedging the torx head and swinging on a spanner, but I'll only be happy when the torque wrench has clicked at the right setting :)
 
Good to hear.

Well, the happiness has gone away.

Took the thing for a longer test drive (the wife had promised me a pint for the day's hard graft), as we got to 50 mph a vibration started through the floor and seats, accompanied by a whine.

Reading around the forum, it sounds like I might not have the bearings aligned correctly, so, how can I quickly (like before it gets dark in an hour) get the thing lined up right?

Thanks in advance
 
They must be at right angles to the prop - slacken the mounting bolts and move them. I suggest slacken both and wiggle them so they find their natural alignment then check to endure they are at right angles to the prop.
 
angeloc said:
They must be at right angles to the prop - slacken the mounting bolts and move them. I suggest slacken both and wiggle them so they find their natural alignment then check to endure they are at right angles to the prop.
Click to expand...

Will do, although it's going to be next weekend now, the wife will be away from Wednesday morning and we'll manage with mine until then.

Your post over in the other vibration thread bears thinking about as well, I just need some slim torx sockets so I can make sure the damned things are tightened up properly :(
 
Also, how much play should I expect in the rear diff mountings? While trying to spin the rear wheel to turn the prop shaft I notice quite a lot of play in the mountings, about an inch or so of movement, with just the wife's weight turning the rear wheel.
Click to expand...

have only the haynes for reference ..
( i.e. yet to have a look around the underside of my vehicle ..
( and as a reference .. mine has 37k miles on it .. 'n on inspection by the local LR mechanics
( it was deemed preferable to replace one of the rear diff. mounts .. due to a split in the rubber ..

anyhow .. looking at the haynes diagrams of the rear drive unit
'n reading the torque settings for the various bolts
i'm thinking that "an inch or so of movement" .. Might be too much ? ..
looks like the only 'play' could be afforded by the solid rubber bushings

and to quote haynes regarding the refitting rear drive ..
" Land Rover dealers use a special centralising jig to align
the final drive with the propshaft when it is refitted.
If this jig is not available, it is advisable to make as many alignment markings
as possible on the front and rear mountings, to give some chance of retaining
the correct alignment after fitting. "

that's why i'd question the "inch or so of movement" on those mountings

torque settings are as follows
final drive mounting to subframe bolt .. .. 120nm/89lb.ft
final drive to mounting bolts .. .. 65nm/46lb.ft

~~~~~~~~

front prop to ird flange .. .. 40nm/30lb.ft
prop shafts to vcu .. .. 65nm/48lb.ft
rear prop to rear axle flange .. .. 65nm/48lb.ft
vcu support bearing bolts .. .. 28nm/21lb ft

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

refitting the vcu support bearings: ( haynes ) ..
" The vcu support bearings must be aligned so that they are
exactly 90 deg. to the centre-line of the vcu,
and are therefore running as freely as possible.
When the alignment is satisfactory,
tighten first the rear, then the front support bolts
to the specified torque "
 
have you got a set square put it on the prop and along sid the bearing now here is a question if you leave the rear diff mounts in position and just undo the bolts going on to the rear diff then put a new rear diff in place would it alter the position I do not think so my self but other my "diff"er
 
I don't like the sounds of this special centralising jig for refitting the drive train :(

I must dig out my set square from where ever it's hiding.

To be honest, when I put it back together I was thinking it was a bit 'heath robinson' considering the rotational forces involved in spinning a ~ 25kg mass at pretty high speed.

If I'd had the original one when we got the car I have a feeling this would have been much easier, having read Hippo's how to on the VCU bearings it looked pretty simple, but he did have the old bits to mark up :)

I've got most of Thursday and some of Friday to have another go at it, if that doesn't sort it I'll talk to the local LR bodsd about this alignment jobbie, see what the charge is to have them use that :(
 
teddywood1 said:
have you got a set square put it on the prop and along sid the bearing now here is a question if you leave the rear diff mounts in position and just undo the bolts going on to the rear diff then put a new rear diff in place would it alter the position I do not think so my self but other my "diff"er
Click to expand...

If I understand this right, you're talking about the prop shaft to rear diff flange connection?

If so then I reckon there is enough play in the bolt holes to allow for a mm or so of misalignment, and with the soft rear diff mounting rubber that might explain the vibration.
 
Can somebody clarify the use of this LR 'Jig'.

As I understand it, the Jig is only for aligning the Rear Diff - is that correct?

The VCU support bearings are just aligned at 90degrees to the prop, hence the suggestion to use a set or try square.

Must check mine tomorrow.
 
As I understand it, the Jig is only for aligning the Rear Diff - is that correct?
Click to expand...

with reference to my post ... then " yes "
i was just adressing the 'inch or so movement regarding the rear diff. unit'

i was thinking .. that if the rear diff. unit had too much movement/play ..
i.e. in regards to its mounting points ..
then it Might have some connection .. via cause/effect
as to .. the vibration felt at 50mph

~~~~~~~~~~~
i have no idea as to the amount of acceptable play in those rear diff mountings
doesn't say anything in the haynes ..

i could ask the local LR techies at the dealers .. next day or two ..
 
Hippo said:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/freelander-1-vcu-bearing-replacement-how-guide-156068.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/rear-diff-mount-replacement-how-guide-101774.html
Click to expand...

Cheers Hippo, I used your VCU Bearing How To pretty extensively when doing the work, sadly we bought the thing without a VCU and propshaft so didn't have anything to mark up around :(

Looking at the rear diff mount How To, ours is knackered :( Is that the likely cause of the vibration from the car?

With your How To and the other stuff on here I'm pretty sure the odd noise is the misalignment of the VCU bearings, so I'll be digging out my old engineer's square and crawling back under the car later this week :)

If I ever meet you, I owe you a beer for the VCU how to by the way :)
 
TRXnMe said:
Cheers Hippo, I used your VCU Bearing How To pretty extensively when doing the work, sadly we bought the thing without a VCU and propshaft so didn't have anything to mark up around :(

Looking at the rear diff mount How To, ours is knackered :( Is that the likely cause of the vibration from the car?

With your How To and the other stuff on here I'm pretty sure the odd noise is the misalignment of the VCU bearings, so I'll be digging out my old engineer's square and crawling back under the car later this week :)

If I ever meet you, I owe you a beer for the VCU how to by the way :)
Click to expand...
Marking the diff is optional. Always causes a discussion on ere. Those who agree and those who don’t. More of a peace of mind thing if a problem gets worse after you’ve taken it apart.

If the rear diff mount at the front of the rear diff (called the centre diff mount) has failed then you get a bump sound from the rear when pulling away. Sometimes when driving on uneven ground too.

VCU mount bearings rumble when they fail. Seems to be amplified on Freelanders. Getting the bearing 90 degrees to the metal pole going in both sides of the vcu is important. If it’s a little bit out then the betterer quality mounts have proper rubber which lessons then stress angled on them. But I think more often the bearings fail when new because they’re either crap, or they’ve not been pushed on using the inner race. If you push the inner race then your not stressing the bearing carrier outside bit, or the bearings themselves. My socket method isn’t the best way but it does push the inner race. Some garages have been known to hammer new bearings on. Whacking then left and right until home… I think bearings which fail after many years do so because water and muck is chucked at them during their life time. The front bearing is more exposed. Hence this one fails more often than the rear. Easier to change them it pairs.
 
Hi,

Hippo is dead right the front bearing went first on mine.

I hope that everyone is aware that Foundry4X4 are doing the OE quality GKN prop-shaft bearing mounts fitted with top quality FAG bearings and decent rubber for an amazing £40.49 for a pair, including first class postage.

Mine arrived in less than 24 hours of ordering them.

Excellent service.

Don't buy crap unbranded bearings. They are NOT cheaper and you'll be doing the job again in a few months.

Singvogel. :crazy_driver:
 
Hippo said:
Marking the diff is optional. Always causes a discussion on ere. Those who agree and those who don’t. More of a peace of mind thing if a problem gets worse after you’ve taken it apart.

If the rear diff mount at the front of the rear diff (called the centre diff mount) has failed then you get a bump sound from the rear when pulling away. Sometimes when driving on uneven ground too.

VCU mount bearings rumble when they fail. Seems to be amplified on Freelanders. Getting the bearing 90 degrees to the metal pole going in both sides of the vcu is important. If it’s a little bit out then the betterer quality mounts have proper rubber which lessons then stress angled on them. But I think more often the bearings fail when new because they’re either crap, or they’ve not been pushed on using the inner race. If you push the inner race then your not stressing the bearing carrier outside bit, or the bearings themselves. My socket method isn’t the best way but it does push the inner race. Some garages have been known to hammer new bearings on. Whacking then left and right until home… I think bearings which fail after many years do so because water and muck is chucked at them during their life time. The front bearing is more exposed. Hence this one fails more often than the rear. Easier to change them it pairs.
Click to expand...

Well, they aren't rumbling, it's more of a low level howl, I suspect maybe the rubber mount might be rubbing on something rotating, I've not had a really good luck since the failed trip to the pub, lack of light and work are a major deterrent.

I'm off work Thursday and Friday so will get under the thing for a really good look then, I'll have my set square sorted by then as well :)

If squaring things up and tightening the front propshat mounting bolts up doesn't sort it out I'll whip the rear prop shaft out and see if that gets rid of the noise, if it does I guess I've now got to follow the rear diff mount how to you did..... :)

Land Rovers seem to be resurecting my spannering skills all in a rush :D
 
TRXnMe said:
While I was under there I noticed there is a sticker on thhe ird, it says that the unit is suppled with no oil in and must be filled before use. Is this normal, or is it possiible we have a recon ird on the beast?
Click to expand...
Of course it doesnt have oil in it and wont until the drive shaft is in place .I'm sure you knew that any way :scratching_chin:.
 
OldIrishWulf said:
Of course it doesnt have oil in it and wont until the drive shaft is in place .I'm sure you knew that any way :scratching_chin:.
Click to expand...

Nope, I'm pretty new to all this stuff, learning as fast as I can from what's on here and what's in Haynes.

Do the ones that come on a new Freelander have the warning label on them then? This is the only one I've been underneath.
 
Hippo said:
Marking the diff is optional. Always causes a discussion on ere. Those who agree and those who don’t. More of a peace of mind thing if a problem gets worse after you’ve taken it apart.

If the rear diff mount at the front of the rear diff (called the centre diff mount) has failed then you get a bump sound from the rear when pulling away. Sometimes when driving on uneven ground too.

VCU mount bearings rumble when they fail. Seems to be amplified on Freelanders. Getting the bearing 90 degrees to the metal pole going in both sides of the vcu is important. If it’s a little bit out then the betterer quality mounts have proper rubber which lessons then stress angled on them. But I think more often the bearings fail when new because they’re either crap, or they’ve not been pushed on using the inner race. If you push the inner race then your not stressing the bearing carrier outside bit, or the bearings themselves. My socket method isn’t the best way but it does push the inner race. Some garages have been known to hammer new bearings on. Whacking then left and right until home… I think bearings which fail after many years do so because water and muck is chucked at them during their life time. The front bearing is more exposed. Hence this one fails more often than the rear. Easier to change them it pairs.
Click to expand...

OK, read your How To a couple of times (like 12 or more) and found the mounts on eBay for between £50 and £110 quid (the latter having polyprop, not rubber).

The two outer look to be within my spannering skills to manage, the middle might be a challenge, mainly as I'm working off a trolley jack and two **** ant little axle stands (I'm also a fat git, so don't fit under cars like I used to, sodding calories), is the middle a 'must do'?

From what I've read the outers are the weaker, on the other hand the driver's side is moving upwards a good inch when the rear wheel is moved by hand so I'm assuming the middle will have been over loaded :(

The wife had a quote to replace all three mounst from our Local LR dealer and it's an ouch job, so me crawling around on the drive is looking to be the favourite option.

Times like this I wish I'd stayed back 'oop norf' near me Dad and his nice warm garage with an inspection pit in it!!
 
Centre mount usually fails first. Make yerself some hipporamps (TM) and you'll have more room under it. Also keeps it stable and level for you to work under. Not that hard to replace rear diff mounts. Just make sure you've got all the tools you need first.

2 x 4 x 24 inch blocks of wood longways
2 x 4 x 12 inch blocks of wood acrossways
2 x 4 x 24 inch blocks of wood longways

All nailed together with some wooden ramps too. Lifts yer Freelander 6 inches.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hipporamps-how-to-guide.257760/

EGR3kqR.jpg

EGR3kqR
 
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