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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 25, 2014

• #1

hi all, hope everyones coolx

got a quick question for everyone, my Freelander makes a clunk noise when going into second. Specifically when pushing the gear stick into second only when pulling away at lights when the revs are quite high, if i go into second at a slower speed or when coming down from 3rd etc there's no clunking noise.

thanx in advance guys , you lot are stars x

rich

 

Freelaner

Landy Driver

• Jul 25, 2014

• #2

Rear diff mounts or rear subframe bolt or both

 

Skinny Mike

Well-Known Member

• Jul 25, 2014

• #3

+1 on rear diff mounts, probably the front one.
Mike

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 25, 2014

• #4

Is it an easy fix or quite an expensive one? Sure my vcu needs changing too as the steering feels really tight when on full lock... I was hoping the clunking was just a need for new transmission oil change an filter lol oh the joys hey


Thanx guys for such quick replies

 

gstuart

D3 Grandad

Full Member

• Jul 25, 2014

• #5

rich31 said:

Is it an easy fix or quite an expensive one? Sure my vcu needs changing too as the steering feels really tight when on full lock... I was hoping the clunking was just a need for new transmission oil change an filter lol oh the joys hey


Thanx guys for such quick replies

Click to expand...

if u suspect ur vcu i would get that off quick , otherwise can cause irratreavable damage to ur rear diff and ird

if u do a search for rear diff mounts there are a few write ups

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 25, 2014

• #6

Not 100% on the vcu, it does feel tight when on full lock but its never too hot to touch.

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 26, 2014

• #7

Ok guys going to be safe an take the propshaft off today until recon vcu is ordered an fixed in but do i take of the whole propshaft or just the front propshaft? An leave the back end on?

Thanx guys

 

Bruthar

Member

• Jul 26, 2014

• #8

rich31 said:

Ok guys going to be safe an take the propshaft off today until recon vcu is ordered an fixed in but do i take of the whole propshaft or just the front propshaft? An leave the back end on?

Thanx guys

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Usually it's easier to remove the whole prop shaft if you're replacing the VCU, as this makes seperating the VCU from the front and rear props easier.

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 26, 2014

• #9

Cheers mate, an i take it i will then be 2wd then an be fine to drive until i fix the vcu? Thanx guys i really appreciate it as i was sure whether i just take off one end of the propshaft x

 

Hippo

Lord Hippo

• Jul 27, 2014

• #10

Yer can drive front wheel drive (2wd) ok in a Freelander. You will have to tell yer insurance. It will feel slightly different to drive but still ok. Some like the way it feels but I don't. You might as well remove both props and vcu if they're coming oft for the vcu to be replaced.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/freelander-1-vcu-bearing-replacement-how-guide-156068.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/rear-diff-mount-replacement-how-guide-101774.html

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 27, 2014

• #11

Cheers mate, i so appreciate the helpful advice

 

Freelaner

Landy Driver

• Jul 27, 2014

• #12

rich31 said:

Not 100% on the vcu, it does feel tight when on full lock but its never too hot to touch.

Click to expand...

Before you go spending your cash or removing it unnecessarily.

there is a slight braking effect experienced even with a new one and this is normal/part of the original design.

 

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Bizzie

Active Member

• Jul 27, 2014

• #13

I've just fitted a new VCU and it seems tighter more braking effect than the old one so I don't think thats a reliable way to tell if it's goosed.

 

Freelaner

Landy Driver

• Jul 27, 2014

• #14

but all these experts say different!

how can that be :scratching_chin::confused2:

 

Hippo

Lord Hippo

• Jul 27, 2014

• #15

op2:

 

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rich31

Active Member

• Jul 28, 2014

• #16

Hahaha ohhh now in completely lost lol how do i tell if the vcu is truely knackered then? On a side note today it felt alot better on a full turn reverse so in not too sure what to do , atleast i can sort the rear diff mounts , so do i order front diff mount too or just the rear ? I did do one good thing today an that was clean the dirty egr so that's something done.

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Jul 28, 2014

• #17

Look in the CFAQ section. All you need to know about yo Gaylander is in there.

 

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Stephen_Aust

New Member

• Jul 30, 2014

• #18

I had the dreaded second gear CLUNK a few times. It was always the diff mount in front of and above the rear diff. Designed by LR execs to require constant replacement to help pay for their bonuses. $70AUD aftermarket. Like a different car and all smooth when you fix it. Beware they fail every 50,000Km or so.

 

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swill1965

New Member

• Jul 30, 2014

• #19

I am new to this site and have not figured how to write a post yet, so I am going with this post as I have a similar problem,I have a 1999 freelander on full lock in reverse it feels stiff when you pull away in first you get a metal ping like something has tapped the prop. also sometimes it is hard to get into 1st and rev changed master and slave unit is this the clutch on way out very low biting point, is this normal?