[cornishboater]

Hi all,
After many months of perfect EAS operation the old girl did one of her intermittent faults. I have never really paid much attention to the sequence of operation due to the faults in the past. Since doing the reset and clearing the faults she now sits at access (I drop her when I park) until I select drive, she then rises to standard height immediately. Prior to this last fault as soon as I started her she went straight to highway mode and then after about 2-3 minutes of driving she rose to standard height. I was wondering which is the correct sequence. Seems rather odd that this sequence would change seeing as there must be a pre-programmed sequence of events. Since the reset (caused either by the RH front ride sensor or by a bad connection at the large connector in the EAS box) she has been going fine, as in she goes up and down as per normal at highway speeds. Any ideas as to why this procedure would change and which is the correct sequence.

Many thanks

 

[Grrrrrr]

Why drop to Access? Just makes the pump work more when you go again.

Might be worth checking the connector behind the A post.

 

[cornishboater]

Arthritis unfortunately I have had the connector apart and cleaned etc, it was actually in good nick but did it anyway. The fault only ever occurs on dual carriageways (not everytime) and when the road is fairly smooth for long periods at speeds over 50-60. As I mentioned previously, after cleaning and repairing the connector in the EAS control box under the bonnet she has been flawless for months. I guess she was getting bored of being a good girl...

 

[wammers]

Should rise from access to standard and stay there, unless travelling at 50 MPH or more for over 30 seconds then will drop to motorway. Then will return to standard after more than 30 seconds below 35 MPH.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Best take a trace and see what is going on.

 

[wammers]

Hi all,
After many months of perfect EAS operation the old girl did one of her intermittent faults. I have never really paid much attention to the sequence of operation due to the faults in the past. Since doing the reset and clearing the faults she now sits at access (I drop her when I park) until I select drive, she then rises to standard height immediately. Prior to this last fault as soon as I started her she went straight to highway mode and then after about 2-3 minutes of driving she rose to standard height. I was wondering which is the correct sequence. Seems rather odd that this sequence would change seeing as there must be a pre-programmed sequence of events. Since the reset (caused either by the RH front ride sensor or by a bad connection at the large connector in the EAS box) she has been going fine, as in she goes up and down as per normal at highway speeds. Any ideas as to why this procedure would change and which is the correct sequence.

Many thanks

Take a look at white plug an socket at base of lower N/S A post. It is the interface between the height selector switch and EAS inhibit switch to ECU. Look for and clean off any verdigris and dampness Make sure contacts are clean or you can get spurious signals entering ECU and causing it to have a bit of a fit.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Take a look at white plug an socket at base of lower N/S A post. It is the interface between the height selector switch and EAS inhibit switch to ECU. Look for and clean off any verdigris and dampness Make sure contacts are clean or you can get spurious signals entering ECU and causing it to have a bit of a fit.

See #3.

 

[wammers]

See #3.

Not the same connector.

 

[oakey]

If it was at motorway height when you stopped will it not return to motorway height until you have been driving below 55 for long enough to go to standard?

 

[cornishboater]

Thanks Wammers and Grrrrr, I have had all of the connectors off and cleaned them all, new compressor, rebuilt valve block, did the air dryer, replaced the EAS ECU and checked all of the wiring. I thought that I had fixed the issue as mentioned in the earlier post, the only thing left is the FR ride sensor as the fault always comes up on that side, as mentioned only on sustained speed on dual carriageways, never faults anywhere else. Oh yes, I also replaced the driver pack but always the same fault logged. as in:
Vehicle has moved
Cannot Lower FR
FR Valve Stuck Closed
The fault has remained the same with all of the above bits done so I can only see that it can be the ride sensor

The bit I was wondering though is how the height sequence changed, from Wammers post it seems that what it is doing now is exactly what it should be doing. The funny thing is that for 3 odd months the sequence was: From access starting the car took it to motorway height and then after driving for a few minutes it would rise to standard height. The rise and fall on Motorway driving worked fine as does it now and at the correct speed. I had originally thought that the fault was connected to the signal to drop to motorway height but this is definitely not the case as this last fault occurred after the signal (quite a time after) I was just wondering how the logic in the EAS ECU could modify the lift sequence without a fault being triggered.
I am going to get a sensor and see if that cures it, I just hate popping more dosh on another part that may not be the issue, I have just invested in a rebuilt BECM (bloody perfect now!) and had just failed MOT due to a lower ball joint cover being perished, ended up replacing upper and lower along with a new rear exhaust so I am now another £500 odd quid lighter plus the new BECM.......
I still love the old girl though, even after the swear words.
I think it did all of this because I refurbished the door handles...

 

[cornishboater]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I still have the issue with the door and tailgate inhibit not working although the brake pedal does inhibit the rise or fall..

 

[Wazzajnr]

When you set off from access, it should go to standard. What are the lights on the switch doing? In other words, does it light up to motorway height?
Are your front target heights within 2 points and more than 5 (or is it 10?) away from the maximum and minimum.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I still have the issue with the door and tailgate inhibit not working although the brake pedal does inhibit the rise or fall..

That is weird. I recall a conversation about this with @martyuk providing details on which wires carry the inhibit signal. Was that you? Still not fixed. Hmmm. Never heard of an EAS computer going but always possible. Bet they're cheap as chips on eBay if no-one is buying them. Might be worth a go.

If you look on the Nanocom can you pick up the doors opening and so forth?

 

[cornishboater]

Hi Grrrr, I did replace the EAS ECU and the problem remained the same, it has to be a wiring issue somewhere, I am not really overly bothered with it not functioning but wondered if it may be related to the intermittent fault although I would have thought that it would be more of a continuous fault. Unfortunately I only have EAS Unlock and no Nano so I cant read the door function.
Wazza, as for the lights, all function as they should, since this last reset she does rise to standard height as soon as I put it in gear, as I mentioned previously, for months now she has been going up in steps, from access to motorway and then when driving rises to standard, bit weird that the logic changed, still, it is a P38

 

[wammers]

That is weird. I recall a conversation about this with @martyuk providing details on which wires carry the inhibit signal. Was that you? Still not fixed. Hmmm. Never heard of an EAS computer going but always possible. Bet they're cheap as chips on eBay if no-one is buying them. Might be worth a go.

If you look on the Nanocom can you pick up the doors opening and so forth?

It is the BECM that does the EAS inhibiting based on signals from doors ajar and stop lamp switchs. If the tailgate switch, which is part of the latch is faulty closed circuit, there should be a message on the message centre saying "tailgate open" when it is shut. If not then it is fair to assume the switch is stuck open circuit indicating to the BECM that the tailgate is shut at all times. And the EAS should go up or down with the tailgate open or closed.

 

[martyuk]

Do you still have the delay/timer relay in, or have you swapped it for a normal 4 pin relay to stop the self-levelling when parked? I only ask as it has been noted that if you do that then it will return back to the height that the EAS ECU was last in when it powered off.

I swapped mine, as I got sick of the self levelling overnight, but had done it at my workshop where I'd taken the offroad track, and had swapped the relay whilst it was in extended height. Every time I started the RR, it then would raise to extended height (as it was last selected), but then lower back to standard after I'd hit 35mph (or told it to go back to standard). I swapped the relay back and then reinstalled the relay when it was at standard height and it now goes back to standard height all the time. If you had swapped the relay when it thought it was supposed to be at highway height, then it would always go back to that. Then if you had driven at less that 50mph for 30 seconds (which you would do around town/setting off from home etc) then it would raise back up to normal height.

If you still have the delay/timer relay fitted then none of the above applies and I have no idea why it would go up in 'steps'.

Inhibits... If it were a door ajar or tailgate switch, then you should have a 'XX DOOR OPEN' or 'TAILGATE OPEN' message on the dash. If the BECM has been serviced then not likely to be that which is the issue, so it then points to there being an issue in the wiring from the BECM to the EAS ECU on that inhibit wire, especially if the EAS ECU has been changed also, with no difference in operation.

 

[cornishboater]

Hi Marty, I think you may have something there, the last time I had a fault I managed to do a reset with the green relay in, how I don't know because all info I have read says that you cant use diagnostics without the timer real. I had forgot that I had the green one in. On this last reset I did use the timer relay so that may answer the question regarding the mystical logic change!
As for the BECM controlling the inhibit, I have had a refurbed BECM installed thanks to Rik the Pick due to other issues and the inhibit issue remained so I think that can be ruled out. The warning regarding doors open and tailgate open does come up on the message centre so I assume all connections to those must be ok. Weird I think. One thing, if the timer relay is not in I assume the inhibit will still work? I haven't tried that yet

 

[martyuk]

If you don't have the delay timer fitted, and have a standard relay instead, then there should be no difference in the inhibits. As I mentioned, I have a standard 4 pin (equivalent of a yellow LR) relay in mine and all the functions/inhibits work as normal.
I keep the delay/timer in the glove box for when I need to connect back with diagnostics.

I am not sure what effect having the 5 pin/green relay fitted will have over the 4 pin one - but I think some people on Rangerovers.net (where the initial discussion about it was) tried 5 pin versions.

Either way, if you have the standard delay/timer relay in there at the moment and the inhibit for the door/tailgate isn't working to the EAS ECU then I would imagine that the issue is in the wiring loom somewhere. I found one on another owner's P38 which did random EAS things, and it was because when the LPG installer had fitted the LPG pipe from the tank to under the bonnet, they managed to put a self tapper up through the body and into the wiring loom - which just happened to randomly short out one of the inhibit wires.

Repairing that, solved his issue. If you don't have LPG then not likely to be your problem, but I have sometimes seen wires in the loom become corroded internally and break, or caught between bits of trim etc when things have been removed/replaced, which has damaged the wiring.

If everything else checks out, then it does point to something in the wiring between the BECM and EAS ECU as being at least the issue with the inhibit line.

 

[cornishboater]

That is worth a look, I do have LPG, however all of the faults occurred years after having had it fitted, might be corrosion though after a few years of use.
Going back through my notes the reason I used the 5 pin was that I had read on RR.net that it was possible to use diagnostics with this relay fitted which solves the issue about being able to reset with it in, albeit that it took many, many attempts to get it to read the codes. Any ideas on which wires send the signal from the BECM to the EAS CPU, I can check if there is a break there, also, if there was a break would I still get the message centre saying that the door and/or tailgate was open or does this not come through the EAS CPU?

Many thanks for the replies though, I still need to get my HVAC off to you, the fan knob is falling off now! Will let you know when, I have to recoup my bank account after the MOT work....

 

[Grrrrrr]

I like mine self-levelling. If I'm doing a load of logs it needs to self-level as you take the logs out to stop the arse ending up pointing at the sky! Just shut the tailgate as it starts getting high and it drops back to normal.