My MOT fail with pics.. welding advice please

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MrJC

MrJC

Well-Known Member
Posts
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Near Wigan Lancs. 1997 Defender 110 300tdi
I booked my 90 in a month before the MOT was due and it failed due to... 'both front bulkhead support riggers, excessive corrosion, seriously effecting its stregth within 30cm of the body mountings'

I didn't see it coming as it looked ok :doh:.... but the tester (fair enough) has had a good poke and revealed all.

My question is.... is this a big job to repair/weld or can it be done on a ramp without stripping body parts off?
How should it be tackled to make a decent job of it and get thro the MOT?
How many hours work do you reckon and maybe a price?

Pics show the worst side, other side is not as bad.
I am looking for a welder in the Wigan area....good news is that everything else was fine.:)
 

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MrJC said:
I booked my 90 in a month before the MOT was due and it failed due to... 'both front bulkhead support riggers, excessive corrosion, seriously effecting its stregth within 30cm of the body mountings'

I didn't see it coming as it looked ok :doh:.... but the tester (fair enough) has had a good poke and revealed all.

My question is.... is this a big job to repair/weld or can it be done on a ramp without stripping body parts off?
How should it be tackled to make a decent job of it and get thro the MOT?
How many hours work do you reckon and maybe a price?

Pics show the worst side, other side is not as bad.
I am looking for a welder in the Wigan area....good news is that everything else was fine.:)
Click to expand...

the out riggers are an easy repair for someone whos capable with a welder :D no no to do the out riggers nothing needs to be removed other than the positve battery terminal, as for the 30cm away from body mountings where abouts are you talking?
 
MrJC said:
I booked my 90 in a month before the MOT was due and it failed due to... 'both front bulkhead support riggers, excessive corrosion, seriously effecting its stregth within 30cm of the body mountings'

I didn't see it coming as it looked ok :doh:.... but the tester (fair enough) has had a good poke and revealed all.

My question is.... is this a big job to repair/weld or can it be done on a ramp without stripping body parts off?
How should it be tackled to make a decent job of it and get thro the MOT?
How many hours work do you reckon and maybe a price?

Pics show the worst side, other side is not as bad.
I am looking for a welder in the Wigan area....good news is that everything else was fine.:)
Click to expand...
baest way is to remove the bulkhead to do it properly. Remove existing outriggers with bulkhead in situ. and tack noo outriggers in place. then remove bulkhead and fully weld outriggers, This way when the bulkhead goes back on you Know it's gonna be perfectly lined up
 
gcoo8154 said:
the out riggers are an easy repair for someone whos capable with a welder :D no no to do the out riggers nothing needs to be removed other than the positve battery terminal, as for the 30cm away from body mountings where abouts are you talking?
Click to expand...

So how do you weld the top of the outrigger to the chassis rails with the bulkhead in situ?
 
well to be fair i wouldnt bother changing it the top looks ok its the front and bottoms that go first so id plate it like i did and passsed with no issues what so ever
 
Yup mine were like that on my 110 I just plated em. Pain in the arse to replace the outrigger unless your footwells are rotten too.
 
mine were the same. plating was a pain but i did it. a garage would charge £30 to do it or so new outriggers? £100+ easy.

depends what you want the car for and how much spare cah you have
 
You're not going to know, until you've wire brushed the rust and rotten metal away, back to clean shiny stuff. Then you'll know if plating it at the side is a bodge or will do the job. MoT is quite lax on corrosion, really. So a plate covering the stuff would pass even though its not as strong.
 
i just cut the **** off from round it with the air saw, then burned all round the remaining rust with the oxy acet torch , then yers got no rust what so ever , just clean metal, cut a patch, of the same thickness, 5mm bigger all round , nice and neat, tack it on the corners, then weld carefully all round letting it cool after every inch or so, then spray with redoxide.

as for welding the tops of out riggers , thas where the arc rods come in handy, yer can get in there better than a mig
 
Thanks to everyone for the advice.... I would like to replace the outriggers and do a top job but if a good solid job can be done welding patches that will be good for now.
I want to keep this 90 as apart from this problem its a goodun. Will update when I know more.
Good advice from you all :) I appreciate it!
 
It's a bit of a job, I did both sides of mine, the worst bit is welding around the top where the new outrigger goes over the top of the chassis, one side (drivers, I think?) is harder than the other, but can be done by someone who can weld.
At the end of the day, a replaced outrigger looks better than a patch job.
The outriggers themselves aren't that expensive.
 

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Gafferjim said:
It's a bit of a job, I did both sides of mine, the worst bit is welding around the top where the new outrigger goes over the top of the chassis, one side (drivers, I think?) is harder than the other, but can be done by someone who can weld.
At the end of the day, a replaced outrigger looks better than a patch job.
The outriggers themselves aren't that expensive.
Click to expand...
So you managed to weld new outriggers without removing the bulkhead? Can I ask what type of welding equipment you used? Looks a tidy job to say the least.... can you give a brief description on how you did it? Nice pics.... Cheers:)
 
no prob with the bulkhead in position , folk just make problems fer them selves ;)

if yer using the arc welder fer the top section yer can weld the top seam easily as the rods are long, but wont be able to get a mig torch in there,

floor out and do the inside welds, i did mine with gas, even beter weld,
 
90truckcab said:
no prob with the bulkhead in position , folk just make problems fer them selves ;)

if yer using the arc welder fer the top section yer can weld the top seam easily as the rods are long, but wont be able to get a mig torch in there,

floor out and do the inside welds, i did mine with gas, even beter weld,
Click to expand...
Excellent.... I to find a welder who has done this type of job before and I need to know roughly how its done so I make sure the jobs a goodun. I think experience in Land Rover welding is a must. I have a couple of numbers to call on Monday. Its Arc welding I need not Mig (or at least for the top bit) Many thanks:)
 
MrJC said:
So you managed to weld new outriggers without removing the bulkhead? Can I ask what type of welding equipment you used? Looks a tidy job to say the least.... can you give a brief description on how you did it? Nice pics.... Cheers:)
Click to expand...
I did it all with the mig. The preparation, ie getting ALL the old member & accompanying weld off makes it easier, that's why you can see an array of different grinders.
I would believe that arc welding around the top could be easier, but I'm crap with the stick (or haven't got the right rods!) so did it all with the mig
 
90truckcab said:
no prob with the bulkhead in position , folk just make problems fer them selves ;)

if yer using the arc welder fer the top section yer can weld the top seam easily as the rods are long, but wont be able to get a mig torch in there,

floor out and do the inside welds, i did mine with gas, even beter weld,
Click to expand...

I welded these outriggers on for a friend with a mig, floor pans were out but the bulk head was on. I couldent quite weld it all the way around, i cant remember which bit it was or what was in the way, it wasnt much but they pulled it up on the MOT, now i get to have another go at it. Partly his fault for not painting it, they wouldent have seen it with a coat of waxoil. :doh:
 
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