Diff lock stuck?
- Thread starter doublem1
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the_wolf
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Oil the linkage, it tends to stiffen up as it goes unused for long periods
If it hasnt been used in a while they can be bloody tight!!!
Try leaning in from the passenger door and properly pulling on it.
If still no luck a lubricant on all the linkages and try again.
If it still wont budge the linkage may need adjusting, there are threads around on how to do this.
Try leaning in from the passenger door and properly pulling on it.
If still no luck a lubricant on all the linkages and try again.
If it still wont budge the linkage may need adjusting, there are threads around on how to do this.
Thor1950
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better choice take the cover off from around the shift levers and clean the dirt and crud from around it and give it a lube job, to much force and things could break
Thor1950
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block your tyres so it don't move, put main gear box in neutral, then work on diff lever, most likely it is stuck on top of box with dirt and crud
When you say on top of box, does that mean I will need to remove something to clean and lube it?
Thor1950
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believe so
Thor1950
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Google Image Result for http://www.landrover.com.sg/images/defender/explore/optoly_gb_l316_a-transmission.jpg
look at picture and see what I am saying, see the shift levers
look at picture and see what I am saying, see the shift levers
I just stick it in , I don't bother with the clutch . I just make sure that I'm travelling in a fairly straight line and not accelerating hard. You can do it at any speed as well.
I used to fanny about , but one day when I was bored I read the owners manual and that changed how I did it.
Hi-lo is a different matter though
I used to fanny about , but one day when I was bored I read the owners manual and that changed how I did it.
Hi-lo is a different matter though
Thor1950
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He can't at this time it is stuck solid. Has to loosen/clean things up first
Ah ok, because we were trying it with the engine off and obviously stood still. So is it ideal to change to diff lock when moving or even crawling? And obviously hi-lo when stationary?
Thor1950
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:doh::doh: :scratching_chin: Wish that info was with your first post
It would of gotten you different advice
:doh::doh: :scratching_chin: Wish that info was with your first post
It would of gotten you different advice
My apologies. However, I have just been informed that my father has tried it with the engine running and in first gear. But still solid.
Lots of people put it in diff lock when they are stuck but really you should stick it in if you think you might get stuck and the take it out when you pass the sticky bit.
As for hi lo you can change from hi to low at very slow speeds but from lo to hi you can go much faster, it may be 20+ mph but I'm not sure. I will check when I get home
cowasaki
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I've just done what you probably need to do but mine was mainly to replace the diff lock detect switch. You need to remove the gear knobs, carpet & sound proofing then you will see the metal of the tunnel. Undo all of the screws and you get access to the top of the gearbox. Mine was caked in an inch of solid oily mud....
Clean it all off with a scraper and stiff brush then lubricate the mechanism
... you may want to put it back together afterwards by reversing the above.
Clean it all off with a scraper and stiff brush then lubricate the mechanism
... you may want to put it back together afterwards by reversing the above.
sp00k
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A few well placed squirts of penetrating oil from underneath might just do the trick though - worth a try before taking the tunnel off. I would be wary of using too much force - something is bound to bend or break. It should be very smooth and easy to engage the diff.
When I had mine off, I left the gearknobs and gator in place and was able to remove the tunnel cover. My difflock would not stay engaged, but it just needed a quick clean and all was well.
When I had mine off, I left the gearknobs and gator in place and was able to remove the tunnel cover. My difflock would not stay engaged, but it just needed a quick clean and all was well.
I've just done what you probably need to do but mine was mainly to replace the diff lock detect switch. You need to remove the gear knobs, carpet & sound proofing then you will see the metal of the tunnel. Undo all of the screws and you get access to the top of the gearbox. Mine was caked in an inch of solid oily mud....
Clean it all off with a scraper and stiff brush then lubricate the mechanism
... you may want to put it back together afterwards by reversing the above.
Thanks Cowasaki and sp00k for the advice. I don't like the idea of forcing it too much. We need to take the gear knobs and interior plastics out anyway so I think this is what I'll do. It's pretty muddy underneath so I'm expecting mud and all sorts under there.
So once I gain access to the top of the box, is it easy to distinguish what is what? And just clean it up, no further removal of parts? Just lube up the mechanisms (what is best to lube it with?)
sp00k
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I just cleaned mine with paraffin and then lightly greased with spray white grease. Once everything is off, it's very easy to see how it works. There is a video on youtube which goes through it as well. Mine was actually pretty clean, just stiff from standing around unused.
You can engage and disengage the diff without using the clutch but the wheels must not be slipping when you do it. You should not use the difflock on hard surfaces that won't allow the wheels to skid - it's for sand, dirt, gravel etc.
You need to use the clutch when changing between low and high and vice versa. You need to be stopped (or very nearly) to switch from high to low. You can switch from low to high on the move (but I've never tried as I've never had the need).
