Going to view a series 3 tomorrow what to look out for?
- Thread starter Jamo36599
- Start date
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BarnsleyRob
New Member
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chassis number and logbook match 
johnny curt 1
Well-Known Member
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- manchester
how long have you got
big things to check on the series hit list are
1 front axle swivvel balls ( big chrome balls behind the wheels ) check theres no big pits of rust in them allowing oil to get out of the seal round them
2 leafsprings check these look true such as the leafsprings are all flat and paralelle with each other and not rusted to death
3 fuel tank brackets again if they look rotten round the bolts and brackets be ready to buy a new tank and or outriggers for it
4 bulkhead outriggers and front chassis legs near the front spring hangers these go like paper when rusted so give them a good stab with a big screwdriver if your unsure
5 rear chassis crossmember give this a bloody good poking specialy on the inside of the rear wheelarches
6 bulkhead footwells these are often buggers for the tinworm and are often crudely repaired with allsorts
7 door post bottoms it dont matter what these look like give them a friggin good prod aswell as ive seen a fair few of these with more filler than a polycell delivery truck
8 bulkhead vents ( under the windscreen ) get these open and have a good feel round the edges where you cant see as these are renound to rot there and become terminal
9 engine all series engines will leak oil but check for exess oil coming from the back end of it where it joins to the gearbox ( 3 bearing engines are a cow for leaking past the rear crankcase oil seal )
10 other end of the gearbox check the big square plate for leaks round the edges as this is another simple to fix but ****ty job to do
11 rear axle check theres no oil or brake fluid coming out from behind the brake drums and theres no visible oil leaks anywhere near the rear diff pan and grab the propshaft where it goes into the diff and give that a bloody violent wiggle checking for any play in that bearing and do the same for the front
12 itll clunk itll rattle itll be often like stiring a can of tar finding them but make sure you drive it and try all gears in low and high range ( the odd crunch or whine is just normal for a series so dont be too alarmed )
13 if it throws tonnes of black smoke out when under acceleration be prepaired to spend money on the engine and dont let the seller tell you it just needs an adjustment knock him down for it
i hope this helps in some way and i hope its a good one for you
big things to check on the series hit list are
1 front axle swivvel balls ( big chrome balls behind the wheels ) check theres no big pits of rust in them allowing oil to get out of the seal round them
2 leafsprings check these look true such as the leafsprings are all flat and paralelle with each other and not rusted to death
3 fuel tank brackets again if they look rotten round the bolts and brackets be ready to buy a new tank and or outriggers for it
4 bulkhead outriggers and front chassis legs near the front spring hangers these go like paper when rusted so give them a good stab with a big screwdriver if your unsure
5 rear chassis crossmember give this a bloody good poking specialy on the inside of the rear wheelarches
6 bulkhead footwells these are often buggers for the tinworm and are often crudely repaired with allsorts
7 door post bottoms it dont matter what these look like give them a friggin good prod aswell as ive seen a fair few of these with more filler than a polycell delivery truck
8 bulkhead vents ( under the windscreen ) get these open and have a good feel round the edges where you cant see as these are renound to rot there and become terminal
9 engine all series engines will leak oil but check for exess oil coming from the back end of it where it joins to the gearbox ( 3 bearing engines are a cow for leaking past the rear crankcase oil seal )
10 other end of the gearbox check the big square plate for leaks round the edges as this is another simple to fix but ****ty job to do
11 rear axle check theres no oil or brake fluid coming out from behind the brake drums and theres no visible oil leaks anywhere near the rear diff pan and grab the propshaft where it goes into the diff and give that a bloody violent wiggle checking for any play in that bearing and do the same for the front
12 itll clunk itll rattle itll be often like stiring a can of tar finding them but make sure you drive it and try all gears in low and high range ( the odd crunch or whine is just normal for a series so dont be too alarmed )
13 if it throws tonnes of black smoke out when under acceleration be prepaired to spend money on the engine and dont let the seller tell you it just needs an adjustment knock him down for it
i hope this helps in some way and i hope its a good one for you
johnny curt 1
Well-Known Member
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- 9,118
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- manchester
copy what ive written and paste it into a notepad or word document on yer compoohtur then print the sheet off for revision purpouses before you knock on the door
Telboy111
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- South West
If you see anything working or in good shape bang yur head against the nearest wall to check yur not dreaming
crashbox
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- In the UK, thankfully.
If it isnt leaking oil it means it has run out.
lmao
