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As all have said above. And worth repeating to do the 1 wheel up test first as you need the props on to do this! Remove it if its to stiff, post your timings on here if you need advice. Actually, you could post them on here...

Last Sunday, I bought my first Freelander 2 — and, in fact, my first Land Rover. After decades of G-Wagon ownership, this feels a bit like changing schools mid-term: familiar turf, but different uniform. Since 1996, I've owned a 1982 280 GE LWB —...

Evening, Noticed my 4.6 has been losing some coolant recently. Pressurised the cooling system, and I can see drips dropping from the bottom of the wheel arch, just before the front driver (UK) wheel. Pics/video: Is there a common place where...

RAC called out and diagnosed clutch were slipping, Off to garage and had Fly wheel, clutch, and he said he had to fit bearing. Drove home struggled to get gear which were fine before but presumed it was me getting used to bite on clutch, but temp...

I had this issue, it was solved quite quickly with a blowtorch and hacking away at the housing around the nut until I could just about fit a wrench on it to keep it still

What are we ignoring?

I was wondering also if this other port is a connection for a return pipe. I really need to findout where the return pipe from the engine passes to enter thhe tank

I had a rattle from a faulty shock absorber a few years ago. The cheapest way to confirm it was to buy a used strut complete from a breaker and swap it out.

Why don't you take the drop links off and see if the rattle has gone?

Disconnect battery. Take one lead off from fuse box. The lead from battery. 3 nuts and lift fusebox up to allow access.

That maybe so but they are all interchangeable so it doesn't matter along as it doesn't leak.

I was thinking of looking at the top suspension minting but wasn’t 100% sure how to get to it on the passengers side as loads in the way. I’ll have a look thank you.

I've had strut top bearings and also a loose centre shock nut (at the top) that clonks like a roll bar joint.

Thank you for posting the link for me.

About to go for scrap next week!

I can understand the splines stripping but a solid steel shaft breaking would take some force !

They had lots of play and the britpart one piece ones were a decent price and simple. Will report back on any difference once I have finished refurbing brakes, being done at same time.

Hi everyone, Just wanted to give an update. They're saying there is a big crack in the head gasket. I'm still annoyed we didn't check it ourselves, but hey ho

Don't worry - we'll ignore it for you, 'till you're back

Why did you need to fit HD shafts? Reason being my buddy snapped a rear shaft in a Puma 110 recently, but only moving off from standstill uphill. Not exactly a "tough" shaft..

Photos of your D1

This video on you tube is exactly what the rattle sounds like and also the reason why I went down the drop links route. When I went through my 3rd pair of drop links I decided that the anti roll bar bushes must be worn and causing excessive ware...

Clearly I was showing my ignorance re diffs. With both wheels off the ground the half shafts are engaged with each side if the spider. With no torque on the spider from the transfer ring, of course the wheels simply turn in opposite directions...

I have rattle from the front of the car. It is mainly coming from the passenger side and Halle s when I’m going over a rough road. I have changed the anti roll bar drop links multiple times and have just renewed the anti roll bar bushes and it...

I know I should but I am an arse when it comes to trying to get things "right" and understand why they are not "right". A character flaw on my part I am sure. If other "mini-folk" tell me that this is not abnormal I can stand down I am sure.

You're correct on the incompatibility. The older conical fittings (NTC2927/NTC2928) are imperial, while the newer o-ring type fittings are metric, so they won’t interchange. Swapping the old oil filter housing won’t work due to the different...