Zinc Paint Suggestions

Im thinking of painting my surface rusting 90 chassis.

Zinc paint with a top coat has been suggested.

Does anyone have a good supplier or a good make???

My chassis is surface rust that I can rub off with even just a brillo pad. I
assume I get the moveable bits off and paint it on, or do I have to go right
back to bare metal (id rather not as Ill have to do it with all body parts
in situ.

Could I just put the Zinc paint on (all be it in red) or is the top coat
important? Ill have to do on coat on weekend and one coat the next.

Cheers Tim

In article <[email protected]>, Steve Taylor wrote:
> Tim Guy wrote:
>> Im thinking of painting my surface rusting 90 chassis.
>>
>> Zinc paint with a top coat has been suggested.
>>
>>
>
> This POR15 stuff has been mentioned too.
>

I've used POR15 on parts of my chassis. It is a fantastic paint, it sticks
like the proverbial to everything it touches, do *not* get it on your skin.
It also dries rock hard and looks good though it does need an overcoat as
the POR15 itself is not UV stable. If the blurb is right the rust will not
go any further.

I scraped and wire brushed all the muck off my rear X-member and then put
the POR15 straight on. I used two coats followed by a coat of Hammerite
followed by waxoyl. The pump up pressure thing they sell for waxoyl is
fantastic by the way.

It'd better not bloody rust anymore!!!!

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

Tim Guy wrote:
> Im thinking of painting my surface rusting 90 chassis.
>
> Zinc paint with a top coat has been suggested.
>
>

This POR15 stuff has been mentioned too.

Steve

In article <[email protected]>, Steve Taylor wrote:
> Tim Guy wrote:
>> Im thinking of painting my surface rusting 90 chassis.
>>
>> Zinc paint with a top coat has been suggested.
>>
>>
>
> This POR15 stuff has been mentioned too.
>

I've used POR15 on parts of my chassis. It is a fantastic paint, it sticks
like the proverbial to everything it touches, do *not* get it on your skin.
It also dries rock hard and looks good though it does need an overcoat as
the POR15 itself is not UV stable. If the blurb is right the rust will not
go any further.

I scraped and wire brushed all the muck off my rear X-member and then put
the POR15 straight on. I used two coats followed by a coat of Hammerite
followed by waxoyl. The pump up pressure thing they sell for waxoyl is
fantastic by the way.

It'd better not bloody rust anymore!!!!

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.