You want HOW much ?1*?!!

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D

Dougal

Guest
Exhaust manifold to downpipe stud 300TDI - STC3159.

Answers on a postcard please - your guesses will be way off track!

Needless to say the dealer was told what he could do with them.

(Richard will, no doubt, tell you the list price later.)
 
In message <[email protected]>
"Mark Solesbury" <[email protected]> wrote:

> http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer?findpart&PartID=STC3159&Page=land-rover/defender/exhausts
>
> £7.04 inc vat.
>
>
> Mark
> 9090
>
> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Exhaust manifold to downpipe stud 300TDI - STC3159.
> >
> > Answers on a postcard please - your guesses will be way off track!
> >
> > Needless to say the dealer was told what he could do with them.
> >
> > (Richard will, no doubt, tell you the list price later.)

>
>
>


Current LR list is £7.61 inc VAT


Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
beamendsltd wrote:

> In message <[email protected]>
> "Mark Solesbury" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer?findpart&PartID=STC3159&Page=land-rover/defender/exhausts
>>
>>£7.04 inc vat.
>>
>>
>>Mark
>>9090
>>
>>"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Exhaust manifold to downpipe stud 300TDI - STC3159.
>>>
>>>Answers on a postcard please - your guesses will be way off track!
>>>
>>>Needless to say the dealer was told what he could do with them.
>>>
>>>(Richard will, no doubt, tell you the list price later.)

>>
>>
>>

>
> Current LR list is £7.61 inc VAT
>
> Richard


So my local rip-off merchants were cheap at £7.48 inc VAT!

How that sort of price can be justified is beyond me even after paying
Gordon Brown, for the glass palace showrooms and armies of 'sales
persons'. Quite frankly it's extortionate.

 
On 2006-04-08, Dougal <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

> How that sort of price can be justified is beyond me even after paying
> Gordon Brown, for the glass palace showrooms and armies of 'sales
> persons'. Quite frankly it's extortionate.


TBH I've bought a few studs for various non-Landrover cars, and that
price seems par for the course, still expensive for what they are but
not out of the ordinary!

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Ian Rawlings wrote:
> On 2006-04-08, Dougal <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> How that sort of price can be justified is beyond me even after
>> paying Gordon Brown, for the glass palace showrooms and armies of
>> 'sales persons'. Quite frankly it's extortionate.

>
> TBH I've bought a few studs for various non-Landrover cars, and that
> price seems par for the course, still expensive for what they are but
> not out of the ordinary!


It makes buying a die seem quite worthwhile! I justified (to myself) the
purchase of my first lathe that way, reckoned the payback time on a single
restoration would make sense if I made all the necessary bolts myself.

Karen

--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast


 
On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:

> It makes buying a die seem quite worthwhile! I justified (to myself)
> the purchase of my first lathe that way, reckoned the payback time
> on a single restoration would make sense if I made all the necessary
> bolts myself.


A lathe would be great, I've long ago justified buying one,
unfortunately the space to set one up and to do some metalworking is
more expensive in this country than the tools are :-(

Some studs though are designed to stretch and reach an elastic point
where they can maintain pressure between the two items being attached
during expansion and contraction cycles, especially on things like
cylinder heads. Not sure how easy it is to get that right on a home
setup.

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Ian Rawlings wrote:
> On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> It makes buying a die seem quite worthwhile! I justified (to myself)
>> the purchase of my first lathe that way, reckoned the payback time
>> on a single restoration would make sense if I made all the necessary
>> bolts myself.

>
> A lathe would be great, I've long ago justified buying one,
> unfortunately the space to set one up and to do some metalworking is
> more expensive in this country than the tools are :-(
>
> Some studs though are designed to stretch and reach an elastic point
> where they can maintain pressure between the two items being attached
> during expansion and contraction cycles, especially on things like
> cylinder heads. Not sure how easy it is to get that right on a home
> setup.


Often the hard part is sourcing the right materials - for example, when I
left the UK in the early 80's I purchased a stock of imperial sizes of
imperial hexagonal stock in EN16T that I simply could not replace easily
now. But I bought enough so that with careful rationing it'll last out my
lifetime, other than the 7/16" & 1/2" that's already long gone. cost me a
heap of ££'s even then.

Karen

--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast


 
On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:

> Often the hard part is sourcing the right materials - for example,
> when I left the UK in the early 80's I purchased a stock of imperial
> sizes of imperial hexagonal stock in EN16T that I simply could not
> replace easily now.


So can you not fire the lathe up and machine yourself some new bolts
and nuts? I realise that it's going to take a while to make each one
but if they're hard to find...

(No I don't know anything about what's involved, if that's not already
obvious, other than just mildly educated guesswork)

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 

"Ian Rawlings" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:


> Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!


What's a Bydo?
In what way is the empire evil?
Why should we blast off and strike it?

I'm not blasting off and striking anything without some answers.


 
On 2006-04-09, Natalie Drest <[email protected]> wrote:

> What's a Bydo?
> In what way is the empire evil?
> Why should we blast off and strike it?


The Bydo are a man-made race of beings designed as a weapon to defend
us against enemy aliens from another dimension, unfortunately some nit
set them loose in our own dimension where they attacked us. We
defeated them but they secretly built up an evil empire out of our
sight and are now intent on destroying us. We must defeat them!

Pilot your ship to the Bydo world and destroy the Queen. Instruction
manuals can be found here;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-Type

http://www.irem.co.jp/e/game/r/rtype/index.html

http://www.irem.co.jp/e/game/r/bydo_page/index.html

> I'm not blasting off and striking anything without some answers.


Get cracking soldier!

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
In message <[email protected]>
Ian Rawlings <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 2006-04-09, Natalie Drest <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > What's a Bydo?
> > In what way is the empire evil?
> > Why should we blast off and strike it?

>
> The Bydo are a man-made race of beings designed as a weapon to defend
> us against enemy aliens from another dimension, unfortunately some nit
> set them loose in our own dimension where they attacked us. We
> defeated them but they secretly built up an evil empire out of our
> sight and are now intent on destroying us. We must defeat them!
>
> Pilot your ship to the Bydo world and destroy the Queen. Instruction
> manuals can be found here;
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-Type
>
> http://www.irem.co.jp/e/game/r/rtype/index.html
>
> http://www.irem.co.jp/e/game/r/bydo_page/index.html
>
> > I'm not blasting off and striking anything without some answers.

>
> Get cracking soldier!
>


Shouldn't that be :

www.thewhitehouse.com ?

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
RISC-OS - Where have all the good guys gone?
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
Ian Rawlings wrote:
> On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Often the hard part is sourcing the right materials - for example,
>> when I left the UK in the early 80's I purchased a stock of imperial
>> sizes of imperial hexagonal stock in EN16T that I simply could not
>> replace easily now.

>
> So can you not fire the lathe up and machine yourself some new bolts
> and nuts? I realise that it's going to take a while to make each one
> but if they're hard to find...
>
> (No I don't know anything about what's involved, if that's not already
> obvious, other than just mildly educated guesswork)


My point exactly, that's how I justified the expense of a lathe. However if
you don't start with the right hex stock to begin with, you have to mill the
flats on yourself, which is just plain tedious. But I've been known to do
it, for example when I purchased my current Fairey capstan winch it did not
have the dog to go into the front of the crankshaft. A couple of hours on
the lathe made the dog, and then I purchased the appropriate thread of bolt
& milled the flats down to an A/F size that was spanner-compatible & yet
still fit into the inside of the dog with space for a socket on the head.
All up around 4 or 5 hours work.

The alternate was passing up on a perfectly good winch that's served me for
years now.

Karen

--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast


 
Karen Gallagher wrote:
> Ian Rawlings wrote:
>> On 2006-04-08, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Often the hard part is sourcing the right materials - for example,
>>> when I left the UK in the early 80's I purchased a stock of imperial
>>> sizes of imperial hexagonal stock in EN16T that I simply could not
>>> replace easily now.

>> So can you not fire the lathe up and machine yourself some new bolts
>> and nuts? I realise that it's going to take a while to make each one
>> but if they're hard to find...
>>
>> (No I don't know anything about what's involved, if that's not already
>> obvious, other than just mildly educated guesswork)

>
> My point exactly, that's how I justified the expense of a lathe. However if
> you don't start with the right hex stock to begin with, you have to mill the
> flats on yourself,


What would worry me is the necessary heat treatment of some fastners -
hardening/tempering is very hard to do without some serious kit.

Steve
 
On 2006-04-09, Karen Gallagher <[email protected]> wrote:

> My point exactly, that's how I justified the expense of a lathe. However if
> you don't start with the right hex stock to begin with, you have to mill the
> flats on yourself, which is just plain tedious.


Ah sorry, I told you I didn't know owt about lathing yet, so I missed
your reference to getting stock, hence my question that boiled down to
"Why don't you do what you just said you do?"

> The alternate was passing up on a perfectly good winch that's served me for
> years now.


In my case, I now have two cars that are well past most people's
junk-by date (a 33-year old and a 17-year-old, with a 45-year-old on
the cards), so parts are either hard to find, expensive or just not
available. Metalworking skills will help a lot when trying to keep an
old beast on the road.

Plus of course there's the fun of watching the bit take shape!

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Karen Gallagher wrote:
> you have to mill the
> flats on yourself, which is just plain tedious.

If you have the cash spare, get one of the collet block sets from the
likes of J&L tools. - they have a six sided collet block, and with about
10 seconds setup per face, milling flats gets to be trivially easy.

Steve
 
Steve Taylor wrote:
> Karen Gallagher wrote:
>> you have to mill the
>> flats on yourself, which is just plain tedious.

> If you have the cash spare, get one of the collet block sets from the
> likes of J&L tools. - they have a six sided collet block, and with
> about 10 seconds setup per face, milling flats gets to be trivially
> easy.
> Steve


I use an indexing head - can't run to a dividing head as I never cut gears
(yet) and hence that's all I can justify to myself. But I'll see if a collet
block set such as that is available here in Oz, sounds useful.

Karen

--
"I'd far rather be happy than right any day."
- Slartibartfast


 
Karen Gallagher wrote:

> I use an indexing head - can't run to a dividing head as I never cut gears
> (yet) and hence that's all I can justify to myself. But I'll see if a collet
> block set such as that is available here in Oz, sounds useful.


I'll see what I can find at work, regarding order codes and some
piccies. There is a great suite of bits and pieces, all based on this
collet collection, and its easy to knock up special fixtures - you can
even chuck square stock perfectly with the right collet.

Steve
 
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