V8Goughy
- Thread starter V8Goughy
- Start date
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SpudH
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,256
- Location
- County Kerry, Ireland
I'd say its f**ked 
Sorry, couldn't resist . Somebody intelligent like Wills should be along by morning to help you out, thankfully my brakes haven't given trouble yet so I haven't had to figure them out.
I have read before though that the Nitrogen accumulator that can give up the ghost and need changing. Do a search under nitrogen.
Also, try the same search on Range Rovers
Sorry, couldn't resist
. Somebody intelligent like Wills should be along by morning to help you out, thankfully my brakes haven't given trouble yet so I haven't had to figure them out. I have read before though that the Nitrogen accumulator that can give up the ghost and need changing. Do a search under nitrogen.
Also, try the same search on Range Rovers
wills
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,212
- Location
- Northamptonshire
lol @ intelligent - your too kind Spud - its just lucky guesses most of the time
I have never owned a Classic so I dont really know about the Classic system but having a read over at RR.net seems to suggest its the same as the P38's from 1990 up.
If this is the case then you can try the diagnosis procedure shown on this page...
abs
...when I had a bad accumulator I used this guide. I replaced the accumulator and then had my pump back to running every 7/8/9 presses, no more. When I start up in the mornings I have the pump run for about 35ish seconds. This, as far as I can tell is about normal when comparing to other P38 owners so you might be alright. I thought at the time that I maybe had a leak somewhere internally within the booster block assembly but the pump stays silent for much longer than 5 minutes when sitting waiting to hear it run - this method is used to check for internal leakage of a check-valve or seal - see the above link.
Do the tests above and see what you come up with. You may just have a normal system and be worrying for nothing.
-Wills
I have never owned a Classic so I dont really know about the Classic system but having a read over at RR.net seems to suggest its the same as the P38's from 1990 up.
If this is the case then you can try the diagnosis procedure shown on this page...
abs
...when I had a bad accumulator I used this guide. I replaced the accumulator and then had my pump back to running every 7/8/9 presses, no more. When I start up in the mornings I have the pump run for about 35ish seconds. This, as far as I can tell is about normal when comparing to other P38 owners so you might be alright. I thought at the time that I maybe had a leak somewhere internally within the booster block assembly but the pump stays silent for much longer than 5 minutes when sitting waiting to hear it run - this method is used to check for internal leakage of a check-valve or seal - see the above link.
Do the tests above and see what you come up with. You may just have a normal system and be worrying for nothing.
-Wills
Hi all update on test
I carried out test as advised pump ran for 46 secs on first turning the key.
and on the 5min test it cut in after 3min 32 secs for 3 to 4 secs
on second test first part as above but on 5min test did 5mins 15 secs.
so i deduced that it sound kike the check-valve ?
any advance on this!
Next question what and were is the check-valve?
did i mention l was a newby!
I carried out test as advised pump ran for 46 secs on first turning the key.
and on the 5min test it cut in after 3min 32 secs for 3 to 4 secs
on second test first part as above but on 5min test did 5mins 15 secs.
so i deduced that it sound kike the check-valve ?
any advance on this!
Next question what and were is the check-valve?
did i mention l was a newby!