Tyred Out and Jacked Up

Whilst out in the wilds of Staffordshire yesterday I had a puncture in
the rear nearside of my 1990 110 Defender CSW.

Not a problem, with two spares on the car and all the proper Landrover
jacking kit, this should be a doddle.

I set the jack in the rear mounting post and whilst my wife started to
jack the car up, I released the wheel nuts.

Then there was this funny noise and the car dropped slightly (it hadn't
got that far up fortunately!)

So, as you've probably already guessed, the fixings of the jacking tube
gave way (or I suppose "eased" to be pedantic!)

Is repairing this (the jacking tube) a major job, or something even
worth bothering about? After all, I can get a 4 ton bottle jack for
around £15 from Machine Mart, it's more compact (and just as functional)
as all the components of the LR jack! Also, I assume that the jacking
tube is "structural" for the jack, but for nothing else!

On a related subject as I was towing the caravan from Stafford back to
Trowbridge the following day, I thought it best to get a replacement
tyre (I know I said I have two spares, but the one on the rear door is
actually cosmetic - it needs a new inner tube).

I then spent half an hour on the phone in the centre of Stafford late
Friday afternoon, trying to find a spare tyre. In a perfect world I was
after an Avon Rangemaster, in this world, I was after anything that was
round and the right size. I eventually found a tyre depot in Eccleshall
that would supply a "budget" tyre for £40 (I know, you get what you pay
for), but this was only going to be a "get you home" tyre anyway.

The tyre make is "Security" and it is "Made in China". Anybody ever
heard of it?

Cheers

Peter

puffernutter wrote:

> So, as you've probably already guessed, the fixings of the jacking tube
> gave way (or I suppose "eased" to be pedantic!)
>
> Is repairing this (the jacking tube) a major job, or something even
> worth bothering about? After all, I can get a 4 ton bottle jack for
> around £15 from Machine Mart, it's more compact (and just as functional)
> as all the components of the LR jack! Also, I assume that the jacking
> tube is "structural" for the jack, but for nothing else!

It's the "web" part that's given way, yes? So the jacking tube is
pointing up at the sky when looking from the back?

You need to replace the rear crossmember to do the job properly, yours
sounds like it's pretty rotten. A hundred and fifty quid for the
parts, quite a lot for the labour to do it properly. Make sure to buy
the crossmember with extensions, it'll make life easier to fit and the
rear end may be thin anyway. A bottle jack will get you by for the
moment, though I'd always recommend a trolley jack if you can spare the
space to stow it as they're so much quicker and safer to use,
especially the ones that lift in one stroke. Less time spent with
lorries whizzing beside your head the better in my book.

> The tyre make is "Security" and it is "Made in China". Anybody ever
> heard of it?

No. It may be a lorry tyre? Have never seen an off road tyre of that
brand.

Regards

William MacLeod

[email protected] wrote:
> puffernutter wrote:
>
>
>>So, as you've probably already guessed, the fixings of the jacking tube
>>gave way (or I suppose "eased" to be pedantic!)
>>
>>Is repairing this (the jacking tube) a major job, or something even
>>worth bothering about? After all, I can get a 4 ton bottle jack for
>>around £15 from Machine Mart, it's more compact (and just as functional)
>>as all the components of the LR jack! Also, I assume that the jacking
>>tube is "structural" for the jack, but for nothing else!
>
>
> It's the "web" part that's given way, yes? So the jacking tube is
> pointing up at the sky when looking from the back?
>
> You need to replace the rear crossmember to do the job properly, yours
> sounds like it's pretty rotten. A hundred and fifty quid for the
> parts, quite a lot for the labour to do it properly. Make sure to buy
> the crossmember with extensions, it'll make life easier to fit and the
> rear end may be thin anyway.

Richard - how much for the rear crossmember (with extensions) 1990 110
CSW TD

Anything else I'll need? (Apart from patience, skill, experience,
welder, time.........) all of which (except the welder) I'm lacking!!

Cheers

Peter

> The tyre make is "Security" and it is "Made in China". Anybody ever
> heard of it?

Yes, I've got two on the front of my 109", same tread as Goodyear Extragrip
(Army type) 7.50x16, done a lot of miles and hardly worn, can't knock 'em,
not remoulds either.

Martin

Oily wrote:
>>The tyre make is "Security" and it is "Made in China". Anybody ever
>>heard of it?
>
>
> Yes, I've got two on the front of my 109", same tread as Goodyear Extragrip
> (Army type) 7.50x16, done a lot of miles and hardly worn, can't knock 'em,
> not remoulds either.

Yep - good tyres, we've sold a lot of them and not had any complaints.

--
EMB

puffernutter wrote:

> Anything else I'll need? (Apart from patience, skill, experience,
> welder, time.........) all of which (except the welder) I'm lacking!!

Derry Argue did this fairly recently, so his memory is probably fresh!

Ehh.. station wagon, take off towbar + wiring if fitted, drain,
disconnect + drop fuel tank. Roll bar may need disconnected as well.
Wiring for the back lights + fuel gauge goes through the chassis off
side leg - well, you're going to be chopping + welding there so you'll
have to take care of that. You'll do a better job if you have proper
access to the top side of the chassis, ideally with no body on but
that's a large job on a 110 SW! You'll probably get by with lifting
the body to get access, it depends somewhat on how rotten your rear
chassis legs are and where you have to cut the new extension overlaps.
Some form of jig can be usefull to make absolutely sure that your new
crossmember is in exactly the same place as the last one! Other than
that you just have a few visible bolts at the back for the body (don't
bother with spanners for these, cut them off as you don't have to worry
about damaging the old crossmember) and one exhaust hanger, a few
minutes with the grinder and a heavy lump of rusty metal full of mud
drops with a lound clang onto the floor..... Make sure and paint the
new one afterwards, especially around the welds and a dose of waxoyl
wouldn't go amiss either. A blast from the jetwash to keep it clean on
a regular basis to shift the muck that collects there and harbours damp
will ensure you don't have to do the job again for some time!

I suppose it would be an idea to check very carefully first that the
rest of the chassis is in good fettle, if it looks like you're going
to need new outriggers or dumb irons soon as well then maybe saving the
cash and putting it towards a new chassis is an idea.

Regards

William MacLeod

In message <[email protected]>
puffernutter <[email protected]> wrote:

> Whilst out in the wilds of Staffordshire yesterday I had a puncture in
> the rear nearside of my 1990 110 Defender CSW.
>
> Not a problem, with two spares on the car and all the proper Landrover
> jacking kit, this should be a doddle.
>
> I set the jack in the rear mounting post and whilst my wife started to
> jack the car up, I released the wheel nuts.
>
> Then there was this funny noise and the car dropped slightly (it hadn't
> got that far up fortunately!)
>
> So, as you've probably already guessed, the fixings of the jacking tube
> gave way (or I suppose "eased" to be pedantic!)
>
> Is repairing this (the jacking tube) a major job, or something even
> worth bothering about? After all, I can get a 4 ton bottle jack for
> around £15 from Machine Mart, it's more compact (and just as functional)
> as all the components of the LR jack! Also, I assume that the jacking
> tube is "structural" for the jack, but for nothing else!
>

Arguably the tube is part of the crossmember, and so I'd view at as
a warning that the rear crossmember is not happy. Mind you , under the
latest rules thats not a MOT failure!
<shameless plug>
5 Ton Hinka bottle jack in a nice carry case £13.00 here (inc VAT)
</shameless plug>

> On a related subject as I was towing the caravan from Stafford back to
> Trowbridge the following day, I thought it best to get a replacement
> tyre (I know I said I have two spares, but the one on the rear door is
> actually cosmetic - it needs a new inner tube).

Ha! Going from where I live to where I used to! (Well, ok, Bratton,
but spent a lot time in Trowbrige - Pee Wee's to be exact).

>
> I then spent half an hour on the phone in the centre of Stafford late
> Friday afternoon, trying to find a spare tyre. In a perfect world I was
> after an Avon Rangemaster, in this world, I was after anything that was
> round and the right size. I eventually found a tyre depot in Eccleshall
> that would supply a "budget" tyre for £40 (I know, you get what you pay
> for), but this was only going to be a "get you home" tyre anyway.
>

You should have rung here - I could have lent you one!

> The tyre make is "Security" and it is "Made in China". Anybody ever
> heard of it?

Can't say I have - but for emergencies who cares? BTW Bronco in Leek
have a good price on Rangemasters - £85 inc VAT for 8 or 12 ply.

>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay

In message <[email protected]>
puffernutter <[email protected]> wrote:

> [email protected] wrote:
> > puffernutter wrote:
> >
> >
> >>So, as you've probably already guessed, the fixings of the jacking tube
> >>gave way (or I suppose "eased" to be pedantic!)
> >>
> >>Is repairing this (the jacking tube) a major job, or something even
> >>worth bothering about? After all, I can get a 4 ton bottle jack for
> >>around £15 from Machine Mart, it's more compact (and just as functional)
> >>as all the components of the LR jack! Also, I assume that the jacking
> >>tube is "structural" for the jack, but for nothing else!
> >
> >
> > It's the "web" part that's given way, yes? So the jacking tube is
> > pointing up at the sky when looking from the back?
> >
> > You need to replace the rear crossmember to do the job properly, yours
> > sounds like it's pretty rotten. A hundred and fifty quid for the
> > parts, quite a lot for the labour to do it properly. Make sure to buy
> > the crossmember with extensions, it'll make life easier to fit and the
> > rear end may be thin anyway.
>
> Richard - how much for the rear crossmember (with extensions) 1990 110
> CSW TD
>

£164 inc VAT.

> Anything else I'll need? (Apart from patience, skill, experience,
> welder, time.........) all of which (except the welder) I'm lacking!!
>

Possibly a few bolts etc (the tank has to come out, the anti-roll bar
off and the tow hitch off). If you assumed all bolts (except the main
towing hitch ones) would need relplacing then about £15.

A good time to have a look at the state of the tank.......


> Cheers
>
> Peter


Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay