Torque setting anybody?

Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.

The references I can find are 120lbft but I'm getting fed up with it
slackening off! Last time it was tweaked to 160lbft and I had to tighten
it again today! Of course this may be the result of a cheap after-market
drop-arm - has anybody else had problems?
--
AndyG

"AJG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.
>
> The references I can find are 120lbft but I'm getting fed up with it
> slackening off! Last time it was tweaked to 160lbft and I had to tighten
> it again today! Of course this may be the result of a cheap after-market
> drop-arm - has anybody else had problems?
> --
> AndyG

Yes, constantly on my 110, with a brand new genuine parts drop-arm! Even
tried loctite after cleaning with solvents. Finally fitted a second nut as a
locknut and did away with the tab washer. Torqued main nut to 160ish and
locknut to 100ish lbf.ft.
Badger.

"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "AJG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.
> >
> > The references I can find are 120lbft but I'm getting fed up with it
> > slackening off! Last time it was tweaked to 160lbft and I had to tighten
> > it again today! Of course this may be the result of a cheap after-market
> > drop-arm - has anybody else had problems?
> > --
> > AndyG
>
> Yes, constantly on my 110, with a brand new genuine parts drop-arm! Even
> tried loctite after cleaning with solvents. Finally fitted a second nut as
a
> locknut and did away with the tab washer. Torqued main nut to 160ish and
> locknut to 100ish lbf.ft.
> Badger.
>
>

I replaced the steering box on a 90 classic utilizing the original drop arm.
I used a lock washer with no worries here.

In message <[email protected]>
AJG <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.
>
> The references I can find are 120lbft but I'm getting fed up with it
> slackening off! Last time it was tweaked to 160lbft and I had to tighten
> it again today! Of course this may be the result of a cheap after-market
> drop-arm - has anybody else had problems?

These are famous for losening. Just make sure the tab washer is fitted
"correctly" and things should be ok.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

In message <36873e4d%[email protected]>, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> writes
>In message <[email protected]>
> AJG <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.
<snip>
>These are famous for losening. Just make sure the tab washer is fitted
>"correctly" and things should be ok.
>
Hmm ... recon steering box and new arm. New nut and tab washer. It
doesn't appear to be the nut rotating but the arm 'relaxing' on the
splines which allows it to move ...

Currently 140lbft ... we'll see what happens this time!

I think I'll go for the locknut (with a dab of locktite) if this doesn't
work ... will get rid of that pesky tab washer.

--
AndyG

>>> Range Rover power steering drop arm nut - early type 3-bolt box.
>
> <snip>
>
>> These are famous for losening. Just make sure the tab washer is fitted
>> "correctly" and things should be ok.
>>
> Hmm ... recon steering box and new arm. New nut and tab washer. It
> doesn't appear to be the nut rotating but the arm 'relaxing' on the
> splines which allows it to move ...
>
> Currently 140lbft ... we'll see what happens this time!
>
> I think I'll go for the locknut (with a dab of locktite) if this doesn't
> work ... will get rid of that pesky tab washer.

.... worth checking that the 'shoulder' on the output shaft is below the
contact surface for the nut on the drop arm. If proud it'll be
impossible to get it tight. Assemble first with a washer with a hole
that will allow the end of the spline to pass through and no tab washer.
Tighten to seat the components. Remove nut and check as above. If OK
replace washer with tab washer. If the spline pokes through you'll need
to use a washer to prevent the nut bottoming.

I think that there was an issue along these lines, and may even have had
it myself but the memory is hazy. Perhaps someone else will remember.

Other silly things to look out for are burrs etc. on the splines (both
male and female) and the possibility of a wear step if the drop arm has
been rattling around.

If the joint tightens properly the tab washer should be just a back-up
measure. There are some drop arms which do not have a good flat for the
bent over tab washer to seat on properly. Early tab washers were not
really big enough to do the job properly.