Tool Size, fnarr, fnarr

oddbob · Apr 15, 2011

No it's not a question about your little (or big) old man, but one regarding Torx bits....

Looking at the shafts (sorry, drive-shafts) on my TD4, there looks to be a good variety of male headed torx bolts holding all the broken bits together, so looks like I need to invest in yet another set of bits.

So the question is, what size range do I need? I don't fancy buying a set off flebay only to find that I need to go and buy one more sized bit that wasn't included.

My only experience of torx bits in the past wasn't good, the female sort seem to fill up with rust and dirt which makes getting a good grip a matter of spending time cleaning them first to avoid chewing them up, are the male type just as bad?

Hippo · Apr 15, 2011

When you say drive shaft, do you mean prop shaft?

I got these for my hippo. Covers most of what you need.

10 PIECE FEMALE STAR TORX TORQUE E SOCKET SET CR-V | eBay UK

9pc 1/4" Star / Torx Socket Bit Set 1st Class Post | eBay UK

And some allen key ones

PRO 10pc 3/8 METRIC HEX ALLEN KEY SOCKET BITS SET CR-V | eBay UK

And some crow foot for the difficult nuts too close to things. as a nice optional extra

FRANKLIN 10pce CROW FOOT SPANNER SET 3/8" 10-24mm | eBay UK

And you be needing some extensions for the hard to get at. Depends on what size sockets you have

1/2 inch 3pc 1/2 EXTRA LONG EXTENSION SOCKET BAR CRV 15" 18" 24" | eBay UK

3/8 inch 3pc 3/8 EXTRA LONG EXTENSION SOCKET BAR CRV 15" 18" 24" | eBay UK

OldIrishWulf · Apr 15, 2011

You could also use ordinary ring spanners.

Worked for me.

Hippo · Apr 15, 2011

Yep. Just thought I'd add some extra tools other than what the OP requested to know about. Have all been bought for jobs on me Freelander.

OldIrishWulf · Apr 15, 2011

Can you actually get them torx sockets onto the the heads on the prop shaft ?
As far as I can remember I have to use an open spanner on the torx because a ring wont fit in there.
10 PIECE FEMALE STAR TORX TORQUE E SOCKET SET CR-V | eBay UK £5.80 cant go wrong at that price,for something you'll rarely use.

Hippo · Apr 15, 2011

Yes they will go on, but you need to use an extension bar, as the ratchet will foul the prop if using it directly wiff the socket and no bar. If yer gets problems wiff nuts at the top of the prop, coz the eggsource and prop is in the way, push the car 10 inches forward, to rotate the prop 90 degrees. I also got some of them flexible joint things, and also some of these to help out:

4 pc SOCKET ADAPTOR CONVERTOR REDUCER 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" | eBay UK

as me sockets are mixed sizes, some 3/8, ½, 3/4. I buy tools as I need them, and in small sets. Don't go for the top notch stuff as it will never earn its keep wiff the amount of use it will get from me. Will last my life time hopefully. Bit like this ere set of ¾ stuff. Needed a 32mm socket to get me hub nut off, and found these. Good price too:

Hilka Heavy Duty 21 PC 3/4" Drive Socket Set 22-50mm | eBay UK

Un they is 6 sided sockets too, not the 12 sided ones that **** up yer nuts.

oddbob · Apr 16, 2011

Hippo said:
Yes they will go on, but you need to use an extension bar, as the ratchet will foul the prop if using it directly wiff the socket and no bar. If yer gets problems wiff nuts at the top of the prop, coz the eggsource and prop is in the way, push the car 10 inches forward, to rotate the prop 90 degrees. I also got some of them flexible joint things, and also some of these to help out:

4 pc SOCKET ADAPTOR CONVERTOR REDUCER 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" | eBay UK

as me sockets are mixed sizes, some 3/8, ½, 3/4. I buy tools as I need them, and in small sets. Don't go for the top notch stuff as it will never earn its keep wiff the amount of use it will get from me. Will last my life time hopefully. Bit like this ere set of ¾ stuff. Needed a 32mm socket to get me hub nut off, and found these. Good price too:

Hilka Heavy Duty 21 PC 3/4" Drive Socket Set 22-50mm | eBay UK

Un they is 6 sided sockets too, not the 12 sided ones that **** up yer nuts.

Thanks for the answers (all of you) and I'll be ordering a set soon. The manual says lift a wheel off the ground and rotate it to allow access to the propshaft bolts, will this be easier than pushing a hippo 10"?

Hippo · Apr 16, 2011

If you chock the frist wheels, lift one rear wheel and turn it by hand, using steady force, then it will turn if yer vcu int seized and ****ed.

Draft version: http://hippophoto.webs.com/vcubearings.htm

Not everyone agrees wiff the idea of marking the alignment.

oddbob · Apr 17, 2011

I think it sounds like good practice to mark the alignment if only to save time when refitting. Liked the photo-file Hippo, just wondered how you managed to apply the correct torq to the vcu bolts as they're masked by the uv joints.

It had occurred to me to pop the centres out of the uv joints and remove the front and rear prop shafts before removing the vcu and bearings to avoid having to support and lower a 25 kilo metal snake as I'll be doing the job single handed.

Hippo · Apr 17, 2011

I think most peeps take it off in one piece, as it's easier. You can disconect it as you say, but I found easier to to remove the while lot. Just need to support as it comes off.

Torque on the nuts? Yep tis difficult to get to. Spanner only. Best way to do it is to practice on another nut, to see where a torque wrench would stop, then undo the nut and do it back up wiff a spanner. Turn the spanner until where the torque wrench stopped. Would be betterer to hold the torque wrench at the same distance from the nut as the spanner will be. This will give you an idea of the amount of torque needed. It's not perfect, but an example. Once you get working on your hippo a lot you'll be able to guess torque, or know when to expect a torque wrench to click.

oddbob · Apr 17, 2011

Hippo said:
Torque on the nuts? Yep tis difficult to get to. Spanner only. Best way to do it is to practice on another nut, to see where a torque wrench would stop, then undo the nut and do it back up wiff a spanner. Turn the spanner until where the torque wrench stopped. Would be betterer to hold the torque wrench at the same distance from the nut as the spanner will be. This will give you an idea of the amount of torque needed. It's not perfect, but an example. Once you get working on your hippo a lot you'll be able to guess torque, or know when to expect a torque wrench to click.

Not sure this is the best of ideas tbh, I did a course on torque and what affects it when I started at Nissan in 1992, and also as a VM in the REME before that and I'm not sure that trying on another bolt would give repeatable results. I realize that I'm being a bit anal here, and most of us probably reuse the bolts we've just removed and just turn the spanner until it feels good and tight (but not talking bum love there...), but it would be interesting to see how it's done at LR, I know a lot of the methods I used to use on the production line were just about impossible for the home mechanic to replicate.

Hippo · Apr 17, 2011

Perhaps they put this bolt in prior to connecting the prop to the uj?

When you tighten this nut, you'll need to hold the prop, nut side of the vcu, to be able to tighten it up. I put a long screw driver through the uj.

oddbob · Apr 17, 2011

Hippo said:
Perhaps they put this bolt in prior to connecting the prop to the uj?

That wouldn't surprise me, the drive train will be made in a sub-conveyor and married up to the body-shell, we do this with the Qashqai, (though I haven't even bothered looking-up how that drives the rear wheels on the 4x4 variant, but now I have a Hippolander I may get nosey and go have a look, probably all electric with no vcu).

Tool Size, fnarr, fnarr

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