Timing belt - oil leak

Hi,

Currently have the timing case cover off due to a serious oil leak - plan to change both the crankshaft and camshaft seals as I cannot see where the oil has come from - there's so much!

Plan to order a timing belt kit which comes with all gaskets/seals from Glencoyne.

Any helpful tips would be much appreciated!

Or any links to a guide on changing timing belt/seals?

Thanks!

Rob

Just did the belt on mine, fairly straight forward but you need decent tools, some pullers and a work shop manual.
Am sure theres some threads on this somewhere.
The seals are cheap, I didnt replace mine, just did the belt and replace all gaskets, I may regret this!.

I bought parts from Land Rover Parts | Range Rover Spares - Accessories | Paddock seem to be the cheapest around and good service.

Is it definitely oil and not diesel leaking? when I change my belt fuel started leaking from the injector pump into the timing case, seems a common prob.
New seal is cheap, but got a new pump for only £50 think it was the last one they had.

Have you got or can you get an impact gun for the crank nut.
The glencoyne kit is good and they have an article on the web site about changing the belt which contains some tips.

Definitely oil - black. Diesel pump was new/reconditioned a few thousand miles ago by previous owner.

Worryingly, the crank bolt was actually loose! Will make sure it's properly torqued when I rebuild.

Yes, Glencoyne kit looked good - saves all the faffing about picking various parts from different places, and I reckon the quality should be good. Have heard some horror stories about Britpart seals - don't want to this job again in a few thou miles!

natogreen said:

Worryingly, the crank bolt was actually loose! Will make sure it's properly torqued when I rebuild.
!

Click to expand...

That's good news (sort of) since the crank bolt can be one of the biggest problems.
All you have to worry about now are the water pump bolts shearing.

SpringDon said:

That's good news (sort of) since the crank bolt can be one of the biggest problems.
All you have to worry about now are the water pump bolts shearing.

Click to expand...

Yep can quantify this as sheared 2 of the beasties, I re-drilled the sheared bolts. tapped and went tad undersize on the bolts should be fine.

Sounds like crank case oil seal, though when ya get the timing case housing off you may as well replace camshaft seal too seeing that both pulleys will be off.

Keep us posted for any support you want

OK guys, thanks for the support!

All stripped down now - just waiting for the parts to arrive now.

The crank pulley had a couple of lightish scores, presumably from previous strip-downs. It's a mod re-con unit, which was also re-built last year by previous owner due to slipped shell bearing. I've used fine wet n dry paper to polish out scores.

Oil now cleaned up, old crank and cam seals removed.

The injection pulley had the F mark lined up with the arrow on the casing, which I believe is wrong? Will line up with pip when new belt arrives.

Any easy way to check injection timing? Getting V confused reading about drill bits/finding TDC etc.

Also, any tips to set timing belt tension? -Do I need to buy one of the torque wrenches with the pointer:

DRAPER 34487 - POWERSET TORQUE WRENCH 0 - 21KG/M OR 0 - 150LB-FT - 1/2" SQ DRIVE | eBay

Thanks

Rob

Don't know about injection timing.
The pips on the pulleys should line up. Otherwise valve timing will be out.
A deflection type torque wrench like that one is required but get one with lowest range you can as the belt tension is only about 10nm.

Line up the indents, not the F mark, at least thats what I did and mine started and ticks over fine.

As for belt tension, theres lots of confliction, I set mine with my torque wrench which wasnt a pointer type. To some this will be wrong, but did it and then as per most instructions rotated engine twice and did it again, also did this twice.
Belt shouldnt be overtightend but must be tight enough to allow for some wear.
I fitted a draco belt which should be good quality but will replace it again well under the stated mileage.

Back to timing marks, I used a tool to lock the pump but to honest could of got away without it.
You can use a couple of the cover bolts screwed through the camshaft pully (theres two tapped holes) to hold it in place, thats what I did and it worked fine. DONT over tighten just tight enough to hold it in place.
The crank stayed wher I left it without locking pins, the kit ones didnt fit.
Its a tad of a fiddle getting the belt engaged evenly but take your time and it will work.
When you tension it make sure ALL timing marks stay alligned, if one moves its probable one tooth out so repeat the belt allignment.
Good luck!

Thanks, I'll give belt tensioning a try with my 3/8" 0 to 50Nm click type torque wrench.

The injector pulley was definetely set to the F mark before I took the belt off - engine was running OK, so I would imagine I may require to loosen the injector pump and turn to set timing. Some posts I read say trial and error, others mention TDC and a pin through a hole in the side of injector pump.

Confused!

Hopefully the parts will be here soon and I can re-build!

natogreen said:

The injector pulley was definetely set to the F mark before I took the belt off - engine was running OK,

Confused!

Click to expand...

You may want the "F" mark if your 2.5NA is from a Freight Rover/LDV 300 van. Check your engine number to see if it starts with a 14J