Td5 Cylinder Head Torque

I recently had an independent shop replace my cylinder head gasket on my 1999 10p Td5.
A Britpart 2 hole gasket was used and that may have been the first mistake, as I hear Elring is better.

However, after less than 250km since the head gasket change, I am getting oil in the coolant AGAIN.

It is leaking closer to cylinder #1, as you can see oil leaking between cylinders 1 & 2 at the exhaust manifold.

I understand the torque sequence, however, I am attempting a last ditch effort to cinch the cylinder head down a bit, to see if that cures the problem.

Does anyone know what the approximate final torque setting would be, if following the 5 step sequence in the workshop manual?

90ftlbs? 100ftlbs? 110ftlbs?

Thanks in advance, if anyone knows.
Don

It's not so much about the final torque value, but it involves using the elastic stretch of the bolts to squash the gasket and hold the head down as if it were spring loaded. That way, even though the gasket might settle a bit over time, the stretchiness of the bolts should keep everything nice and tight. The TD5 engine uses this stretchy method in quite a few places - the bolts holding the dual mass flywheel on, the bolts holding the injectors in, and possibly elsewhere that I've forgotten about. There's a few people on here who've written about changing head gaskets on the TD5 and it seems that it's worth getting the more expensive gaskets and bolts as the cheap ones are less reliable.

@Brown, thank you for the prompt and thorough reply. I’ll source new hardware and gasket.

There's a thread here about somebody overhauling a TD5 engine:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/at-last-the-big-td5-job.349420/

He had trouble with some cheaper bolts and didn't trust them, but got some more expensive ones and things went much better, apparently.

@Browm, I’ll have a read through that. Thank you for the link!

Sometimes the britpart gaskets are actually elring, so not always an issue, but absolutely avoid the britpart head bolts, the heads on them are a bit rough in quality and I've seen them sheer during torqueing. AMC or genuine imho.

@Bennehboy, I’ll make sure to go all Elring or LR genuine,! Thank you for the help.

There's also an interesting thread by @Bennehboy somewhere about rebuilding a TD5 engine for performance.

I don't know what's available in Panama, but here in the UK Turner Engineering (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/) is very well thought of for Land Rover engine components. They seem to have vetted the parts pretty well, so if they sell you something it's very usable. I believe they ship overseas.

I think my vehicle thread has about 3 rebuilds of my TD5 in it lol. I did push the limits a bit with it to be honest and had a problem all along that I never realised due to not being thorough enough - chiefly worn out small end bushes on the conrods which led to piston slap & skirt wear. Thread linked below, not sure what page the various rebuilds are on, but work from the back as that's probably the most relevant.