Sticking EAS valve

1998 P38 4.6 HSE. Driving steadily along: 'bleep!' all the height indicators flash and 'EAS fault' comes up on display along with height icon light on dash.
Vehicle has stayed up on its suspension ( for now). This happened first two weeks ago, local specialist diagnosed sticking valve..probably..dialled the fault out and it worked fine again ....until today.

I am a bit financially strapped currently ( thank you Mr Brown at £1.07 and rising, per gallon). Looked at Rangie.com site and there is a posting on it that describes checking sticky valves by opening up solenoids and getting the valves out and to clean them. Is this a workable solution or am I opening up a bucket of (expensive) worms? Compressor pump is a new one fitted 4 months ago and working OK. Any help/advice gratefully received. Thank you.

Hi,

You can renovate your valve block with oring kits from RoverRenovations.

Easy and cheap.

Worked well in my case of sticky EAS valves

Thanks for the tip, I did see o-ring kits for sale on various sites I trawled around. I may try that although on the posting I looked at he just cleaned up what were dirty valves with carb cleaner spary and a clean cloth .

As car is still currently "up" on its legs I would presume I will have to ease the pressure out of the system first? Sure if I open up a valve the pressure still in system will major issues.

Believe this can be done by easing off the plug in compressor tank which is notched as you undo to let pressure go before it blows the plug out?!

Hi all, my p38 does this too does anbody know if this is the cure?

adam76 said:

Hi all, my p38 does this too does anbody know if this is the cure?

Click to expand...

I am going to try this work now at the week end, I'll post the outcome letting you know what happens, good or bad!!!

My reply note meant to say " I'm Sure if I open up a valve the pressure still in system will cause major issues".

Suggestion from another source now is that I get EAS fault dialled out by local specialist before working on the valves, then I can lower car down onto "access" mode which gets most pressure out of the system.

Providing I disconnect the battery first, I can open up the solenoids and valves, do the necessary as per the web site posting referred to, and then reconnect battery. I am informed that this will prevent the system entering "EAS fault" when all turned on again. Anybody out there, any comments most welcome, good or bad...cheers K