P38A Spraying wing mirrors?

Hi.

I have a 2002 P38 4.0. My other half unfortunately met someone going round the corner in the middle of the road on a country lane and need a new wing mirror. I have scoured the internet and local breakers for a replacement but can't find one in the right colour which is 507 Caledonian Blue.

I noticed I could get cans of spray in the colour colour and am wondering whether buying a lighter colour mirror and spraying it would give a decent finish. Does anyone have any experience to share please?

Cheers.

A lighter one as a base is always preferable, and if it's blemish free you can skip the primer coat.

A rattle can is all that's required for such a small part but I'd use 2k (two component) clear coat, you'll get a much more durable and professional result.

I believe Jawel Paints sell the aerosol 2k lacquer for around £15.

Little stone chips can be filled with fine filler without the need to prime,
a silver Scotch pad is all that's required to key the surface, or 800-1000g Wet or Dry, i prefer wet ( add a little dish soap into the water).

Usual panel wipe and tack rag rules apply, always start with a grip/mist coat,
2nd coat wet but not closed,
final coat is wet and closed but add a light dust coat on top of that within 2mins.
I believe it's call a balancing coat.

myfirstl322 said:

A lighter one as a base is always preferable, and if it's blemish free you can skip the primer coat.

A rattle can is all that's required for such a small part but I'd use 2k (two component) clear coat, you'll get a much more durable and professional result.

I believe Jawel Paints sell the aerosol 2k lacquer for around £15.

Little stone chips can be filled with fine filler without the need to prime,
a silver Scotch pad is all that's required to key the surface.

Usual panel wipe, tack rag and rules apply as with any refinishing.

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That's great thank you for the advice @myfirstl322

I'd bake it in your oven on a low heat too.

Grrrrrr said:

I'd bake it in your oven on a low heat too.

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What temperature will the plastic stand before it deforms?

Datatek said:

What temperature will the plastic stand before it deforms?

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Should be OK between 60°C to 80°C. Keep an eye on it!

The problem is driving the water out of modern paints. If you don't bake and the coats are not totally dry it can get crazed after a few hot days in the sun.

Grrrrrr said:

Should be OK between 60°C to 80°C. Keep an eye on it!

The problem is driving the water out of modern paints. If you don't bake and the coats are not totally dry it can get crazed after a few hot days in the sun.

Click to expand...

Rattle cans are not water based (yet)...
water based is a pain in the mammories in the colder seasons.

I used water based base coat on my project s/c and I developed a mild case of RSI using my heat gun (with non-operational lock on) along with a haogen quartz heat lamp,

mind you, it was deepest Highland winter time...

probably all fallen off in one sheet by now, but I don't care cos I punted it smartish.

myfirstl322 said:

Rattle cans are not water based (yet)...
water based is a pain in the mammories in the colder seasons.

I used water based base coat on my project s/c and I developed a mild case of RSI using my heat gun (with non-operational lock on) along with a haogen quartz heat lamp,

mind you, it was deepest Highland winter time...

probably all fallen off in one sheet by now, but I don't care cos I punted it smartish.

Click to expand...

I did the wing mirror for my old Omega but didn't bake it. Looks the business until the sun hit it a few months later. By the end of the summer the finish was wrecked and I was kicking myself. Thinking about it, it probably was a bit cold when I did it.

Grrrrrr said:

I'd bake it in your oven on a low heat too.

Click to expand...

With my cooking skills it could be a disaster