Soundproofing your Series

the only think I ever found that made a difference was to go from a hard top to a soft top. The soft top is much quieter as you don't get all the echo, apart from that get ear plugs

Someone before me had put sound proofing mat under the bonnet but it made no difference a looked like a fire hazard to me so I removed it

Same with mine - carpet stuck in the bonnet, hangs down, looks like ****, reminded me of a filthy fly blown sheep.

I think much of the noise comes from the fact that vehicle skin is very thin and aluminium - thus it has no sound attenuating properties and vibrates like a bastard.

By sticking proper sound deadening material to this - not just stuffing foam and carpet in holes, you stop the vibration of the metal parts and also provide a thicker barrier for the sound to penetrate, you have now also created a surface that will attenuate rather that reflect sound waves.

I have seen all sorts of crappy attempts at sound deadening in different applications, foam is pretty mediocre unless it is a higher density with a low content of air. generally the more dense it is the better it will work.

From experience doing one part of the vehicle i.e. the floor and nothing else won't make a big improvement. you do need to do the whole thing to see any significant gain.

Bumping an old thread here...

Paddocks sells this matting system (£489.95). I assume it is the same stuff sold by Exmoor Trim.(£456).

Steamwally fitted this system.

Restosaga gives his view here.

Fraser gives his version here.

1. Has anyone had it fitted?
2. Does it actually work?
3. Will I still be able to fit seat box protectors (but with longer screws)?

I have sound proofed Henry.

It is astonishingly good

It cost remarkably little

I would recommend you concentrate on making the whole vehicle water tight before attempting any soundproofing.
Soundproofing 50% of it will not reduce the noise by 50%. It dunt work like that. Aim for 99% and you may get a 60% improvement.
Custom cut every time. Trattoria are all bleedin shapes and sizes. Using the most expensive products rarely makes a big enough difference on a trattor for the rediculous price. Might be worth it on a car but not a series.
Try not to use anything open cell on anything but the ceiling. Anywhere else and your asking for a big soppy mess.
The most economical and best performing is no doubt EVA foam. It’s cheap, easy to work and hard wearing enough as a base layer for any surface. It must be covered with something less prone to damage by fag ends and hob nail boots. You can pick up the slot together play mats or stable matting or even yoga mats very cheaply but get the thinner type (10mm ish) for bendability in tight spots.
Once you’ve covered just about everything in that make sure things can be removed for servicing etc like floor and seat box panels.
It’s then time to stop the sound that gets in bouncing around so you hear it twice. Carpet, felt and foam can be used to absorb noise.

I have had fantastic results this way but have also used plywood panelling and vinyls in the rear to help line the floor and walls along with rubber matting.

I've had quite a bit of success but its relative as we have a Perkins 4203 so there's a lot of noise to start with. Its an on-going project. What has worked so far:
Roof flashband on doors - huge diference and its still on after 4 years. Do it properly, clean and prime the press on with roller.
Roof flashband on bulkhead and footwells - still on tight after 4 years. Made a a big difference but not as much as on the doors
Finding and sealing every (and I mean every) hole or pentration in the bulhead. Used gutter mastic as it stays flexible. Made a worthwhile difference.
Sorting out the bonnet rubbers, rad strip and hinges, suprsingly effective, a lot of noise must have been the bonnet rattling.
Putting carpet on the doors and rubber mats on the floor (the cheap fitted shaped ones). Helped, doors now absorb sound.
Headlining, made from 3mm correx glued and stapled to sliver bubble insulation and carpeted. fixed on with ally stips screwed into fixings under the roof strips. All removable Killed a lot of reflected noise.
Rebulding the engine - helped a lot, should have done it sooner!
Connecting the radio to a pair of Army suplus tank headsets - fun and works to some extent, need better speaker units. Still not linked it to a Karoke unit so we can use the mikes to speak, at the moment you have to yank the cable to get attention.
Keeping the vents shut, pity in this weather. suspect lining the bonnet would help with this.
Cost? Not much, carpet for the whole inside about £50, flashband £10, mastic £5 Correx £12, mats £25, ally stips £6 odds and ends £20. Headsest were about £12 each
We nearly always drive with some form of headset or ear-defenders but we are doing 55-60 for up to 100 miles at a go when we go to an event.
Backwards step - roofrack, adds to the noise.
I think we are still gettng noise up through the seat box and the covers over the underseat tanks. Centre toolbox is lined.

The biggest down side I find to it not being noisy is it dunt sound like a series any more.
It sounds too much like a car and who wants one of them

Silentcoat is reasonably priced and does the job, dense enough to stop vibration, good soundproofing
Its the annoying buzzes and rattles that it removes, and takes the edge of the drone a bit