Slow oil pressure build up

A

Andrew Mawson

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #1

OK it's not Landrover but many of you know a lot about big throbbibg
diesels.

On my newly acquired 100KVA generator, it is driven by a Ford 2704ET 6
litre 6 pot turbo diesel of late 1970's vintage. There is an interlock
that shuts down on low oil pressure, and an overide button for
starting. Oil pressure is also shown on a conventional 'piped' gauge.
When starting it takes several minutes for the pressure to get up to
50 psi but then holds at this as long as you run it. This means
holding the interlock in for ages when starting. The oil switch for
the interlock and the pipe for the gauge come off an 1/8bps 'tee'
fitting so they are both measuring the same point.

What would cause slow pressure build up?

I've not yet done the obvious of changing the filter and the oil but I
don't see why they would affect it anyway as it gets there given the
time. I'd have thought if it was a hot / cold thing the opposite would
apply.

Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?

AWEM

 

S

Steve

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #2

Andrew Mawson wrote:

> What would cause slow pressure build up?


Airlock ?
Knackered gauge ? But I suppose then it would have to be the OP switch
as well.
Pump with serious bypass issues ?

Steve

 

A

Andrew Mawson

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #3

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Andrew Mawson wrote:
>
> > What would cause slow pressure build up?
>
>
> Airlock ?
> Knackered gauge ? But I suppose then it would have to be the OP
switch
> as well.
> Pump with serious bypass issues ?
>
> Steve

Not the gauge as I tested the op switch setting on an airline and it
was ok
Could be the pump or its strainer I suppose - odd though that the
pressure is ok when up to temperature normally I'd expect it to be
better cold and tail off as it warmed up.

I'll change the oil & filter as soon as I can track down a filter
(Mann H 1038 X anyone ????????)

AWEM

 

S

Steve Taylor

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #4

Andrew Mawson wrote:

> Could be the pump or its strainer I suppose - odd though that the
> pressure is ok when up to temperature normally I'd expect it to be
> better cold and tail off as it warmed up.

Not if theres a leak, the pump sees the "easier" path and takes it. As
the engine warms up the "easy" path becomes less attractive and oil
pressurises the system. But what do I know ?

Steve

 

J

Jon

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #5

>OK it's not Landrover but many of you know a lot about big throbbibg
>diesels.
>
>On my newly acquired 100KVA generator, it is driven by a Ford 2704ET 6
>litre 6 pot turbo diesel of late 1970's vintage. There is an interlock
>that shuts down on low oil pressure, and an overide button for
>starting. Oil pressure is also shown on a conventional 'piped' gauge.
>When starting it takes several minutes for the pressure to get up to
>50 psi but then holds at this as long as you run it. This means
>holding the interlock in for ages when starting. The oil switch for
>the interlock and the pipe for the gauge come off an 1/8bps 'tee'
>fitting so they are both measuring the same point.
>
>What would cause slow pressure build up?

Could it simply be the wrong oil - too thick when cold to flow
properly? I had horendous oil pressure problems in a Rover twin cam
that I had. Turned out using the wrong oil was very bad for the
engine and hydraulic tappets & head!

>
>I've not yet done the obvious of changing the filter and the oil but I
>don't see why they would affect it anyway as it gets there given the
>time. I'd have thought if it was a hot / cold thing the opposite would
>apply.
>
>Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?
>
>AWEM
>

 

J

JD

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #6

Andrew Mawson wrote:

> OK it's not Landrover but many of you know a lot about big throbbibg
> diesels.
>
> On my newly acquired 100KVA generator, it is driven by a Ford 2704ET 6
> litre 6 pot turbo diesel of late 1970's vintage. There is an interlock
> that shuts down on low oil pressure, and an overide button for
> starting. Oil pressure is also shown on a conventional 'piped' gauge.
> When starting it takes several minutes for the pressure to get up to
> 50 psi but then holds at this as long as you run it. This means
> holding the interlock in for ages when starting. The oil switch for
> the interlock and the pipe for the gauge come off an 1/8bps 'tee'
> fitting so they are both measuring the same point.
>
> What would cause slow pressure build up?
>
> I've not yet done the obvious of changing the filter and the oil but I
> don't see why they would affect it anyway as it gets there given the
> time. I'd have thought if it was a hot / cold thing the opposite would
> apply.
>
> Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?
>
> AWEM

Most likely problem is either an air leak or a blockage on the suction side
of the pump, causing slow priming. The blockage would be a partly blocked
screen. A worn pump could also cause slow priming.
JD

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #7

Andrew Mawson wrote:
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Andrew Mawson wrote:
>>
>>
>>>What would cause slow pressure build up?
>>
>>
>>Airlock ?
>>Knackered gauge ? But I suppose then it would have to be the OP
>
> switch
>
>>as well.
>>Pump with serious bypass issues ?
>>
>>Steve
>
>
> Not the gauge as I tested the op switch setting on an airline and it
> was ok
> Could be the pump or its strainer I suppose - odd though that the
> pressure is ok when up to temperature normally I'd expect it to be
> better cold and tail off as it warmed up.
>
> I'll change the oil & filter as soon as I can track down a filter
> (Mann H 1038 X anyone ????????)
>
> AWEM

First of all as it's quick and easy, bleed the line at the back of the
gauge itself and see if that makes any difference. Check that the line
has not been squashed at any point. Check any hoses in the line for
unobstructed bores.

You do need to determine that the engine oil pressure is, in fact, OK.
If the slow build up is only affecting the gauge and switch it's more
annoying than potentially nasty. Otherwise ....

Assuming that you are happy that the gauge reads OK - or use another
known good gauge - put the gauge as close to the oil gallery as you can
get it. No long pipes. You'll then know what you are facing - I hope
that it's good news.

An oil and filter change is a good first step. Check the filter bowl for
metal debris. If it's a screw-in canister, cut it open.

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Dec 6, 2005

• #8

Andrew Mawson wrote:


> I'll change the oil & filter as soon as I can track down a filter
> (Mann H 1038 X anyone ????????)
>
> AWEM

I think it's a common one. Ask around the factors, agricultural
engineers etc.. There are lots of cross reference possibilities from
FRAM (CH834PL1 ?), Wix, Purolator(are they still in business?), AC Delco
etc.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Dec 7, 2005

• #9

Andrew Mawson wrote:

> Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?

There's a whole heap of different sump configurations available on these
engines. From memory the largest one I've been aware of (and likely
what is used in a stationary application) is around 20 litres.


--
EMB

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Dec 7, 2005

• #10

Andrew Mawson wrote:

> I'll change the oil & filter as soon as I can track down a filter
> (Mann H 1038 X anyone ????????)

The last one of these engines with a cartridge filter I worked on took
the same part number as the old 2.25 petrol Landrover engine.


--
EMB

 

O

Office

Guest

• Dec 7, 2005

• #11

Hi

1) Checked oil & Filter as Diesels do tend to sludge
2 ) Change oil & filter
3) Remove Sump & check out Strainer

Hope info Helps


--
Regards

Jb



"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Andrew Mawson wrote:
>
>> Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?
>
> There's a whole heap of different sump configurations available on these
> engines. From memory the largest one I've been aware of (and likely what
> is used in a stationary application) is around 20 litres.
>
>
> --
> EMB

 

D

David

Guest

• Dec 8, 2005

• #12

I had a similar problm on an ancient Mercedes Engine on a barge. It
was sludge in the pipe from the engine to the gauge. Swapped it for
an electrical gauge on the block, a lot easier and no chance of a pipe
fracture causing loss of pressure!

David



On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 06:15:24 +1100, JD <[email protected]> wrote:

>Andrew Mawson wrote:
>
>> OK it's not Landrover but many of you know a lot about big throbbibg
>> diesels.
>>
>> On my newly acquired 100KVA generator, it is driven by a Ford 2704ET 6
>> litre 6 pot turbo diesel of late 1970's vintage. There is an interlock
>> that shuts down on low oil pressure, and an overide button for
>> starting. Oil pressure is also shown on a conventional 'piped' gauge.
>> When starting it takes several minutes for the pressure to get up to
>> 50 psi but then holds at this as long as you run it. This means
>> holding the interlock in for ages when starting. The oil switch for
>> the interlock and the pipe for the gauge come off an 1/8bps 'tee'
>> fitting so they are both measuring the same point.
>>
>> What would cause slow pressure build up?
>>
>> I've not yet done the obvious of changing the filter and the oil but I
>> don't see why they would affect it anyway as it gets there given the
>> time. I'd have thought if it was a hot / cold thing the opposite would
>> apply.
>>
>> Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?
>>
>> AWEM
>
>Most likely problem is either an air leak or a blockage on the suction side
>of the pump, causing slow priming. The blockage would be a partly blocked
>screen. A worn pump could also cause slow priming.
>JD