Servicing 101s

Hello,once again. Have been away from the forum for some time, due to
repeated computer failure (on number 3 now), harvest, new job, so on and so
forth.

Anyway, due to new job have more free time and (very slightly) more cash, so
I thought I'd spend a bit of quality time with the 101. Ok so quality might
not be the right word, esp since in the interim period the healthy starter
motor has developed a terminal illness. Several quid lighter,appropriate
cursing and hammer technique, and the problem is rectified. However,she is
about due a service, and I've not done one on it before (only done a few
hundred miles since having it). I recall being told by someone who claimed
to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing
it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is
this right? What is the correct method of attack?

Cheers

Graham

> I recall being told by someone who claimed
>to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing
>it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is
>this right? What is the correct method of attack?
>
Standard V8.
Drain the sump.
Prepare new *correct* filter.
Stuff sump plug back in.
Swear as old filter is greasy and refuses to move. Chain wrench,
screwdriver through the side or whatever to remove it.
1/2 fill filter then spin it on.
Fill sump.
Turn the old gal over ...

You don't want to have the oil filter off for too long as it will
eventually drain the pump but a couple of minutes won't hurt. I like
prefilling the filter to help things along.
Some recommend refilling before swapping the filter - I don't think it
makes any difference as all the new oil drains straight into the sump
anyway but it may save a few minutes potential drain-time I suppose.

--
AndyG

recall being told by someone who claimed
> to be an authority on such things, that there is a particular way of doing
> it, else you drain the oil pump of oil and it won't re-charge itself. Is
> this right? What is the correct method of attack?
>
> Cheers
>
> Graham


Graham

Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by
changing the oil and filter seperately, not at the same time. Reason
is the pump can possibly drain down if you do them both together. If
that happens you have to remove the pump cover and pack it with
vaseline to prime it. When you change the filter, part fill it with
oil first then spin the engine over with coil disconncted until light
goes out.

For further dicussion on this join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/101/
and do a search.

Sean
73FL74 101GS
1984 110 2.5D
Medway Military Vehicle Group
www.mmvg.net

"Sean Ryan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by
> changing the oil and filter seperately, not at the same time. Reason
> is the pump can possibly drain down if you do them both together. If
> that happens you have to remove the pump cover and pack it with
> vaseline to prime it. When you change the filter, part fill it with
> oil first then spin the engine over with coil disconncted until light
> goes out.

Thanks Sean, did seam to recall him mentioning pulling the pump appart and
packing it with vaseline, that would explain it.

So which would you change first, the oil or the filter, or doesn't it
matter?

> For further dicussion on this join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/101/
> and do a search.

Tried to join a while back, for whatever reason, my application was denied.
Haven't bothered again.

Graham

> Standard V8.
> Drain the sump.
> Prepare new *correct* filter.
> Stuff sump plug back in.
> Swear as old filter is greasy and refuses to move. Chain wrench,
> screwdriver through the side or whatever to remove it.
> 1/2 fill filter then spin it on.
> Fill sump.
> Turn the old gal over ...
>
> You don't want to have the oil filter off for too long as it will
> eventually drain the pump but a couple of minutes won't hurt. I like
> prefilling the filter to help things along.
> Some recommend refilling before swapping the filter - I don't think it
> makes any difference as all the new oil drains straight into the sump
> anyway but it may save a few minutes potential drain-time I suppose.
>
> --
> AndyG

Cheers Andy, didn't think it ought to make much odds, but being as my
expertise lies with diesel engines, I thought I'd better check. Will
probably change one thing at a time as sean suggested, just to play safe.
Had recalled the 'expert' telling me if I did it wrong I would need to pull
the oil pump appart, hence my hesitation in doing the job, and the equiry.

To be honest, I'm not sure it needs the oil changed, recon as with most
landrovers its self changing. Seems to leak enough. Think I will have to add
changing a few gaskets and seals to the list of jobs. That way I might slow
the leaks down a bit. Currently there isn't a gasket or seal that doesn't
leak i don't think.

Graham

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:30:05 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Sean Ryan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Ther are differing opinions on this but I usually play safe by
>> changing the oil and filter seperately, not at the same time. Reason
>> is the pump can possibly drain down if you do them both together. If
>> that happens you have to remove the pump cover and pack it with
>> vaseline to prime it. When you change the filter, part fill it with
>> oil first then spin the engine over with coil disconncted until light
>> goes out.
>
>Thanks Sean, did seam to recall him mentioning pulling the pump appart and
>packing it with vaseline, that would explain it.
>
>So which would you change first, the oil or the filter, or doesn't it
>matter?
>
>> For further dicussion on this join http://groups.yahoo.com/group/101/
>> and do a search.
>
>Tried to join a while back, for whatever reason, my application was denied.
>Haven't bothered again.

Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil, refit the plug, refill it with new oil,
then change the filter. Before removing the old filter, while the oil's
draining, I fill the new filter with oil, wait for a bit and top it up, wait
a bit more and top it up etc., 'til it's full to about 3/4" from the top. I
then take it and the filter wrench under the vehicle, unscrew the old one,
and immediately put the new one on and tighten it. Never had troubles by
this technique.

Incidentally, reading the book of filters, I found that the (Champion) C102
(which is about the most common one in the world) is suitable for the V8 -
it's slightly smaller in size than the standard RR/Disco, but the difference
is minimal. Others that fit are the C145 (which is what's meant to be on
it) and the C150.

Same applies to the 300 TDi and probably the 200 TDi. The slightly
different size makes no real odds, provided you change it regularly.

> Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil <snip>

I'll do that, thanks.

> Incidentally, reading the book of filters <snip>

Its got a Fram PH8A on it, so I was going to stick with that...?

Cheers

Graham

On or around Thu, 18 Nov 2004 17:24:47 +0000 (UTC), "Graham G"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>> Mostly, on V8s, I drain the oil <snip>
>
>I'll do that, thanks.
>
>> Incidentally, reading the book of filters <snip>
>
>Its got a Fram PH8A on it, so I was going to stick with that...?
>

I dunno what fram numbers are. Wotever the book says will be fine, no
doubt. My local supplier stocks champion, so that's what it gets, and the
alternative filter choices arise from the useless buggers not having the one
that fits all the discos, most of the rangies and half of the ordinary
landrovers in stock.