series gearbox/prop question

i had a look at my 2A today which i havent driven anywhere for a while
due to its rattle (which happens on gear changes).

How much free movement/rotation should there be on the front prop when
all the wheels are on the ground?
I can turn my front prop quite a bit if i lie under the landy and when
i do so it makes a clonk just like the one i get when i change gear.

It is not play in the UJ's but in the transfer box and diff

I have checked the oil in everything and they were all good. I took it
for a quick drive round the estate today with the FWH's locked and it
didnt seem to rattle - so could a rattle on gear change be down to the
transfer box or front prop?

Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> i had a look at my 2A today which i havent driven anywhere for a while
> due to its rattle (which happens on gear changes).
>
> How much free movement/rotation should there be on the front prop when
> all the wheels are on the ground?
> I can turn my front prop quite a bit if i lie under the landy and when
> i do so it makes a clonk just like the one i get when i change gear.
>
> It is not play in the UJ's but in the transfer box and diff
>
> I have checked the oil in everything and they were all good. I took it
> for a quick drive round the estate today with the FWH's locked and it
> didnt seem to rattle - so could a rattle on gear change be down to the
> transfer box or front prop?

Didn't they have U.J.'s i the swivels instead of CV's... could this be where
the rattle is?

My front prop used to be like a back of spanners on my IIa.

I have an unknown condition SIII box that I've dug out of the hedge if you
need one for beer money... if only as an exchange unit.

We must be due some snow if your Landie is playing up again ;-)

Lee

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 19:56:38 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Didn't they have U.J.'s i the swivels instead of CV's... could this be where
>the rattle is?

yeah it has UJ' in the front axle. Reckon one of them on the way out
could cause a rattle on taking up drive? They were fine a few years
ago when i replaced the swivels and ive kept the oil levels good.

>My front prop used to be like a back of spanners on my IIa.

ive had noisy rear props and they sounded nothing like the rattle i
have which is a much louder nastier sounding one than the rattly
vibration you get off a rear prop.

>I have an unknown condition SIII box that I've dug out of the hedge if you
>need one for beer money... if only as an exchange unit.

>We must be due some snow if your Landie is playing up again ;-)

indeed!
Though i really need to get the 101 mot'd before christmas so i might
be able to go out in that (though im not sure i want to wearing
bargrips!)

Tom Woods wrote:

> i had a look at my 2A today which i havent driven anywhere for a while
> due to its rattle (which happens on gear changes).
>
> How much free movement/rotation should there be on the front prop when
> all the wheels are on the ground?
> I can turn my front prop quite a bit if i lie under the landy and when
> i do so it makes a clonk just like the one i get when i change gear.
>
> It is not play in the UJ's but in the transfer box and diff
>
> I have checked the oil in everything and they were all good. I took it
> for a quick drive round the estate today with the FWH's locked and it
> didnt seem to rattle - so could a rattle on gear change be down to the
> transfer box or front prop?

Yes, but if so, one of the u-joints is the prime suspect, either in the prop
shaft or swivels. Another possibility (perhaps in addition to this) is that
you are stuck in four wheel drive - due to rust on the selector rods at the
front of the transfer case.
But most problems like this turn out to be the effect of a dragging
handbrake on the otherwise inconsequential slack in the drive train (and
there can be quite a bit, made up of play in all the splines, side play in
diff sun and planet wheels etc, without being a problem.
JD

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 07:15:56 +1100, JD <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Yes, but if so, one of the u-joints is the prime suspect, either in the prop
>shaft or swivels. Another possibility (perhaps in addition to this) is that
>you are stuck in four wheel drive - due to rust on the selector rods at the
>front of the transfer case.

4wd definately disengages

>But most problems like this turn out to be the effect of a dragging
>handbrake on the otherwise inconsequential slack in the drive train (and
>there can be quite a bit, made up of play in all the splines, side play in
>diff sun and planet wheels etc, without being a problem.
>JD

hmm. the brakes are dragging slightly as possibly is the handbrake. it
was hard work actually moving the thing after it has been parked up
for the last 3 weeks! I had to leave it to warm up for a while so that
it didnt stall when i was thrashing it against the brakes!

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 16 Nov 2006 07:15:56 +1100, JD <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Yes, but if so, one of the u-joints is the prime suspect, either in the
prop
> >shaft or swivels. Another possibility (perhaps in addition to this) is
that
> >you are stuck in four wheel drive - due to rust on the selector rods at
the
> >front of the transfer case.
>
> 4wd definately disengages
>
> >But most problems like this turn out to be the effect of a dragging
> >handbrake on the otherwise inconsequential slack in the drive train (and
> >there can be quite a bit, made up of play in all the splines, side play
in
> >diff sun and planet wheels etc, without being a problem.
> >JD
>
> hmm. the brakes are dragging slightly as possibly is the handbrake. it
> was hard work actually moving the thing after it has been parked up
> for the last 3 weeks! I had to leave it to warm up for a while so that
> it didnt stall when i was thrashing it against the brakes!

It is usually the relay lever mounted on the chassis connecting the vertical
and horizontal rods that seizes up on the pivot just in front of the
handbrake assembly. With the handbrake in the off position look underneath
and lever it down against the chassis with a big screwdriver but watch you
don't get run over, scotch the wheels.

Martin