Series 3 on Range Rover axles help!

Hi guys
ive got a series 3 on Range Rover axles and it’s on the wonk badly!
Does anyone know of a build thread or parts/welding advice to fix this!

Many thanks
Matt

Remove and replace with the correct Series 3 parts. Imagine if you were in an accident and someone got hurt and the police were looking at the safety critical components of the vehicle. Bits of rebar and badly homemade spring mounts may land you in court.

This is a **** take I assume? Nobody would be suicidal enough to drive about a vehicle that the axles were not actually attached to

BruceB said:

This is a **** take I assume? Nobody would be suicidal enough to drive about a vehicle that the axles were not actually attached to

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The prop shaft stops it falling off

Proper replies...
You can’t use RR axles as they need a flat for the springs to sit on.

so get a proper axle & then change the diff over. Yes you are back to drums but it’s a lot safer

Hicap phill said:

Proper replies...
You can’t use RR axles as they need a flat for the springs to sit on.

so get a proper axle & then change the diff over. Yes you are back to drums but it’s a lot safer

Click to expand...

Thanks for a proper reply!

So am I assuming that no one in the history of landrovers has ever attached Range Rover axles onto a series landrover?
And if I fabricate flat plates and fix it all properly then I’ll be the first to ever have done it?

Ladrover1971 said:

Thanks for a proper reply!

So am I assuming that no one in the history of landrovers has ever attached Range Rover axles onto a series landrover?
And if I fabricate flat plates and fix it all properly then I’ll be the first to ever have done it?

Click to expand...

I would not do it. It’s a lot of work to get the flat plates on & they also have locators for the spring plates.

you will need to centre the axle before fixing them plates. I thing RR axles are also wider.

Hi Phil
Really appreciate your straightforward answers.
I’ll look into series 3 axles and go from there.
Thanks so much for your advice and help!

Matt

I have RR diffs in Series axles, it works fine, and set up the drums work well. Welding the plates on can be done, but its a lot of welding and a risk the axle warps with all the heat and weld shrinkage. And after that its still too wide. Make sure you have oil fillers, check the diffs you have. If they have fillers - fine, if not then get pans with fillers and weld these to the axle cover. They corrode so its no dig deal to fit new pans.
You were right to ask, the set up you have looks lethal.

Myself and a mate were going to do this once for a leaf spring trials machine, got as far as cutting the spring mounts off a series axle case, carefully cutting around the weld to retain the mount shape. That was it, had enough and decided to stick with original front axle, although not a complete waist as the seats were welded on to a 109 Salisbury rear axle so it would fit on a Series One chassis.

Have to say that photo looks terrible. You can see that rebar retainer welded on is needed because the ubolt is on the curve of the diff housing - because the RR axle is too wide. Also there's barely any movement before you hit the bumpstop.

I agree with @rob1miles re. the thought of going back to drum brakes, they can be very good if set up well. Mine used to stop virtually on a sixpence before it was laid up, since then all the brake fluid mysteriously disappeared from the reservoir so that is something which is going to need a lot of work to get right. I'm hoping I can get them to be as good as they used to be.

109 Front brakes good upgrade for a SWB, more so if moving to larger tyres. While at it rotate backplate so feed first goes to lower slave and bleeder is then on the upper.